Posted on 07/07/2009 5:19:50 AM PDT by RangerM
On Sunday, the left channel (front and back) cut out with nary a sound coming from the left rear, and the front left speaker was tweeter only.
After sitting overnight, (Monday morning) the stereo functioned normally (as far as I could tell) for a few minutes, and then same thing.
Last night, I removed left side speakers, and discovered left front speaker was blown (and probably was Monday morning, but I just didn't notice). Left rear speaker was ok. Moved left rear to left front, and replaced left rear. (I checked both speakers to make sure they were functional before I put them in)
Turned on stereo, and sound only from left front (right side f-r were normal). By that time, it was late so I put things down for the night.
This morning, turned on stereo, and sound from all speakers (both right and left, front and rear). After a short distance, left rear cut out again and left front (and entire right side) was normal.
At this point I'm wondering if my stereo left rear channel has gone bad, but I've never heard of only the front or rear (on one side) going bad. It's usually the entire left or right, afaik.
Before I swapped the stereo, I am wondering if anyone has any insights or experiences on what I might check before I went to the trouble/expense?
Looking to the collective for wisdom.
Capacitors?
You might check out crutchfield.com if you decide to go with a new car stereo. Good selection and they specialize in car stereo for do-it-yourself’ers.
I know what a capacitor is, but I’m a novice at car stereos in general. All I have is the head unit (a Kenwood) and the speakers. All wiring is factory. I’m not aware of an in-line capacitor between them. And the head unit (from what I can remember when I put it in) is pretty basic on the rear. Pre-channel outputs, antenna plug, and wires for power/speakers.
Get rid of the orig left rear speaker.....if prob then persists, the speaker(s) that failed affect or have damaged your L output......don’t screw around with this LR speaker, as your output works now/fails shortly afterward might well become permanent if you continue to use the speaker that was in place when this started.
The collective? Get out of town, you blankety blank communist.
I’d be a communist if I were looking to the collective to pay to fix it for me, wouldn’t I? ;)
The original left-rear speaker is now the left-front speaker. It appeared to be fine.
I hooked it up to a home receiver and it functioned normally, whereas the original left-front had no woofer (only tweeter) sound. I got rid of the original left-front speaker.
In my truck, the sound from the left front speaker isn’t as noticeable, so the original (L-F) speaker could have been that way for awhile.
SOMETHING has damaged/or (still) overheats the L output.....if you are lucky the output is protected and is tripping from overload and it cools down when you leave it be, and trips or fails again......the most likely culprit is the orig LR speaker......absent that, look for short to ground along the spkr wires on the L side.....if so, it won’t be a dead short, there will be some resistance. I think probably this will end with the realization that the L output is hurt, though, unless it has protection (thermal switch that opens) as some high-end equipment has.....
What confuses me is that (with the bad speaker gone) it’s now the left-rear only, and not the entire left side.
I’ve never heard of that.
you might well have 2 bad speakers now......put 2 good speakers with the same resistance as the originals on the left side......if it works it works....if it STILL fails shortly after firing it up, buy another stereo or amp or whatever the output is.....one last time, traver the wires for short to ground..........prob is centered around more current than the output can stand......find it or get out your wallet:)
I didn’t realize I’d need to add a winky-smiley.
;-)
That is why it works when you first turn it on. The stereo is still not at operating temps but when it reaches a certain point the circuit on the board warps and separates from the board itself, thus killing the circuit or one of the power amps is bad and shuts down when a certain temp is reached. Either way the stereo is toast.
Go on-line to Crutchfield and check out their stuff. I have spent a lot of money over the years putting new stereos in my vehicles and they are the best and have great prices plus the BEST service and help of anyone in the business. When you purchase from them you usually get all the installation kits included. A real plus in my book.
Just me being a smart-ass, but that’s why I added mine.
;)
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