Posted on 02/13/2010 12:24:57 PM PST by Blueflag
I would argue that Hornaday XTP in Makarov is more effective than 9mm NATO
I liked them better at $180
Still, a phenomenal side arm for cheap.
Get some A-Zoom snap caps (the red aluminum ones) and do the McGivern drill, 100 snaps a day for a couple weeks and you’ll both smooth out your trigger squeeze and the gun. Smiths now aren’t as well finished as the one’s in the 30’s (like butter - I dry fired a 1939 LNIB Outdoorsman but let it get away ~ a N frame .38 with target sights ~ and still have dreams about it - that’s a getalife sing for sure) or even the 50’s, so extended dryfiring is like a poor mans trigger job, it mates the parts together better.
sing=sign
Nice folks there at J&G.
Still they're a hell of a deal at that price. A solid buy IMO and great for tossing in your SHTF kit.
L
The P64 is way heavy and the DA trigger sucks, but I would have a look at that too from a collectors point of view as well as usefulness.
Of course the CZ 82 really worked out the problems of the makarov (which were minimal)
It has a great DA and SA trigger, good sights, its concealable, dependable and cheap.
Highly recommended
You'd get very little argument from me.
Best,
L
I fired a few SW 357s with trigger jobs that where scary.
Like I said I dont want to shoot my balls off.
Everyone that has fired one LOVES them
Yep.....got a nasty rash....rusted my shooter !!
The KGB used it for 60 years. How bad could it be? LoL
I just replaced 2 firing pins from dry firing...Sigh...
Star BM and Chinese C96 mauser.
Bad habit. The good news is they run like hoses again.
I’ve seen a bunch of butchered trigger jobs in my time too...
“Well Cletus, if cutting one turn off the spring is good, two must be twice as good... and that notch there, let’s stone it round..”
If it’s done right it will be heavy enough to prevent unexpected bangs, but smooth enough to feel a great deal lighter. It’s a matter of very small changes. One of the best fighting revolvers I have is a Model 25 (N frame .45 ACP) that originally started as a bullseye target gun but was chopped to 4” and slicked up by Badger Sports around 1960. The pull is still around 9 pounds but smooth like ball bearings in oil. Add to that smoothed coke bottle stocks and it’s a wonderful thing.
I’ve seen a bunch of butchered trigger jobs in my time too...
“Well Cletus, if cutting one turn off the spring is good, two must be twice as good... and that notch there, let’s stone it round..”
If it’s done right it will be heavy enough to prevent unexpected bangs, but smooth enough to feel a great deal lighter. It’s a matter of very small changes. One of the best fighting revolvers I have is a Model 25 (N frame .45 ACP) that originally started as a bullseye target gun but was chopped to 4” and slicked up by Badger Sports around 1960. The pull is still around 9 pounds but smooth like ball bearings in oil. Add to that smoothed coke bottle stocks and it’s a wonderful thing.
The older Smiths didn’t mind dryfiring in the least, but I still use the snap caps.
Sorry about the double post, I’m certainly not trying to convince anyone my accumulated wisdom is worth looking at twice.
I had to pass up a SW 357 which was accurate and great but the damn revolver would do double taps cuz the trigger was so light.
Sigh...
I am just in the habit of not dry firing at all now.
I thumb it down to test operation.
I know this original question has gotten way off topic, but the truth is there is no PERFECT holster system, just as there is no perfect gun.
Everything is a trade off.
Unless you have a secret source of money and ammo, dryfiring is the only way to get really good at double action revolver shooting. Even Jerry Miculek dry fires alot.
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