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Anybody in here know anything about venting gas stoves?
Vanity ^ | 10-9-2011 | Vanity

Posted on 10/09/2011 7:00:44 AM PDT by OKSooner

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To: Lonesome in Massachussets

“Psst: buy a CO2 detector. Just sayin’, ya know.”

Yea, you must lonesome. You just can’t get Al Gore off your mind. LOL.


61 posted on 10/09/2011 10:45:47 AM PDT by BobL (I want a Conservative for 2012, not Perry)
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To: OKSooner

I agree with the others. The vent is only for smoke and odors, so it’s optional, provided you don’t try using your stove as a heater.

In my last house, I had the same situation, but simply vented to the attic (steep roof, and did not want to cut it up). The attic was huge. It worked great for the years that I lived there...never got yucky or anything, but it did get the smoke and odors out of the kitchen. Probably didn’t satisfy codes though...but as long you don’t plan on starting a huge oil fire, there’s not much risk to it.


62 posted on 10/09/2011 10:50:14 AM PDT by BobL (I want a Conservative for 2012, not Perry)
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To: BobL

You are correct. I shudda said CO detector. My nephew lived in a place with an open grate gas room heater, completely unventilated. Makes me shudder. My wife’s former boss died when her central heating gas heat exchanger leaked CO into her house.


63 posted on 10/09/2011 10:55:18 AM PDT by Lonesome in Massachussets (Ceterum autem censeo, Obama delenda est.)
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To: OKSooner
Yes, that’s right. The range hood, in this case the range hood / vent that’s built into the microwave oven.

Thanks. I suspected you were referring to the Range Hood.

BTW, when you have your new gas stove properly installed and with a proper range hood, you're going to be able to enjoy some really great cooking.

In my opinion, foods cooked on a gas stove and baked in a gas oven seem to taste better to me, because of the higher heat available.

64 posted on 10/09/2011 11:12:20 AM PDT by pyx (Rule#1.The LEFT lies.Rule#2.See Rule#1. IF THE LEFT CONTROLS THE LANGUAGE, IT CONTROLS THE ARGUMENT.)
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To: Lonesome in Massachussets

“You are correct. I shudda said CO detector. My nephew lived in a place with an open grate gas room heater, completely unventilated. Makes me shudder. My wife’s former boss died when her central heating gas heat exchanger leaked CO into her house.”

Yea, scary stuff, be careful out there.


65 posted on 10/09/2011 11:36:44 AM PDT by BobL (I want a Conservative for 2012, not Perry)
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66 posted on 10/09/2011 12:16:22 PM PDT by TheOldLady (FReepmail me to get ON or OFF the ZOT LIGHTNING ping list)
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To: LouAvul

Most kitchen vent hoods do not move enough air or have high enough static pressure capability to significantly depressurize most homes.

Two exceptions:

Very large restaurant-type hoods in the 700 cfm and up range. Also downdraft vented stoves such as Jenn-Air.

Some modern homes are very tightly constructed. It is possible to depressurize them and backdraft combustion appliances fairly easily, especially if the appliances have a convection type rather than a powered exhaust.

You probably have bathroom exhaust fans and a clothes dryer, and possibly other exhausting devices. A fireplace exhausts a great deal of air while in use, a wood stove usually a good deal less. You need to figure whether the home will depressurize if all these devices happen to be in use at the same time.

It is possible to have what is called a blower-door test performed on your home to determine how tight it is. Actually a good idea for anybody, as overly leaky homes are one of the major causes of energy inefficiency. In fairly recent homes a much greater cause than insufficient insulation.

Whoever performs the blower door test should be able to tell you how much ventilation you need for a given range hood exhaust volume. For energy efficiency, if needed, the ventilation air can be brought in thru a heat exchanger wired so that is kicks on when the range hood is on and a damper closes when it is off.

BTW, a major reason not to heat your home by running the gas stove burners is that one of the major combustion gases released is water vapor. Which raises the humidity a bunch and can lead to mold growth and other problems in closets, behind furniture on exterior walls and other cooler parts of the home.


67 posted on 10/09/2011 2:09:11 PM PDT by Sherman Logan
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To: Sherman Logan
Residential kitchen ranges don't need to be vented in our neck of the woods. Lots of higher end places install range hoods that look very fancy and have high CFM loads. Any range hood over 300 CFM is required to have make up air ducted within so many feet of the appliance. Some cities will make a guy put in a 10” opening with a damper and a re-heat coil that is interlocked with the range hood. People don't understand what happens in a house when their range turns on and it creates negative pressure in the house. All the appliances that do not have sealed combustion chambers will back up into the house and create a carbon monoxide hazard.
68 posted on 10/09/2011 2:25:14 PM PDT by Sawdring
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To: OKSooner
Used to work for a gas utility.

Gas ranges do NOT require venting. They go through a rigid test process to assure that they do not produce any appreciable carbon monoxide. If you want to put in a vent hood that has an external venting option, vent that directly through a nearby outside wall. Do not vent into an attic. (However, don't leave the oven door open and try to heat your house with it.)

Do not even think about doing anything in conjunction with the water heater chimney as water heaters can produce appreciable amounts of carbon monoxide. Depending on the installation and local weather conditions, the water heater chimney could spill into your kitchen back through the vent hood. You will kill your self or your family.

69 posted on 10/09/2011 9:14:40 PM PDT by dickmc
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To: dickmc; All

Thanks for explaining that. Thanks to all for participating in a very helpful thread.


70 posted on 10/10/2011 7:59:13 AM PDT by OKSooner ("Get a brain, morans!!")
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