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Posted on 11/13/2011 5:23:05 PM PST by Kevin in California
Since FR has alot of smart and knowledgable people, I thought I pose this question in hopes of getting a few answers.
I have a 1996 Chevy S10 4X4 (automatic tran) with the Vortec 4.3L engine.
Yesterday I went away on an all day trip that's 1.5hrs each way and the only thing I noticed a couple while cruising the highway was it felt like the truck jerked a couple times but I wasn't really sure. Well, I got home last night, parked my truck, and went inside for the night. Well, woke up this morning to go grab a cup of coffee and the truck wouldn't start. It would crank no problem but wouldn't turn over and start. Keep in mind the battery is new and I have 3/4 tank of gas. Well, I tried starting it over the course of the next 2-3 hrs and still, wouln't start. Well, just went outside to try again and it started. WTH??? There's no "check engiine" light on and all the gauges are normal as they were last night. Now, my question.
If I take it into a shop tomorrow to put it on a puter, will they be able to tell me if there's a problem or maybe something like a switch, relay, etc. going out and need of replacement?
I hate to take it on a long trip then have this no starting problem again.
Thanks all!
The fuel pump replacement on the Astro was more than a grand 10 years ago so I'd think the fuel filter would be the place to start. It's a pressurized system so DYI could be messy.
Is it your alternator?
I speak from experience. I have 1998 Lexus LS400 that has this issue. 155,000 miles...It’s been happening for about a year now. Putting it off because it is a $1500 repair job. Lexus in their infinite wisdom decided to put the starter under the manifold. Many labor hours. Yours will be much less expensive.
Not too familiar with GM products, but a scan of replies shows lots of valid suggestions ! FWIW, I’d check in the following order:
1. the fuel pump and/or an in-line fuel filter
Its easy to get a “bad load” of gas that shuts down an alreadyp marginal pump/inlet filter/ in line filter.
2. Crank position sensor: The sudden nature of your failure leads me to believe an electrical problem.
3. A “bond” failure; that is a poor ground is “backfeeding” or merely isolating a critical system.
FWIW, a lot of folks conversant with GM products have remarked to me “electrical issues” arise in GM products over time.
You might want to try “rebonding” engine ground straps, battery grounds - including the terminals - etc. Or as a last resort, install a temporary copper wire bond from the battery negative post to a prominent engine part ! If it works you’ve isolated the problem ! >PS
If it was cranking and the starter wasn't dragging, I'm thinking you were either getting no fire or no fuel.
Change your plugs and wires first and see how it does.
Just a wild guess but if it is a stick shift car their might be a broken switch on the clutch pedal, I’m not sure what you call the switch but the pedal has to be depressed all the way to start the truck, had this happen to a car I had, I replaced the battery and starter before a friend trouble shooted the problem for me. The weird thing about it was if I pressed the clutch pedal down really hard their would might just be enough connection to connect the broken switch to start the car, but if I didn’t press down hard on enough on the clutch I would get nothing. I’ll be at the post office couldn’t get it started, would jump the car and it would start. Next day I’ll be at Walmart, couldn’t get it started, would get a jump, nothing, I’ll let it set for an hour and then try to start it and it would start right up. Very frustrating after about a half a dozen times this happen to me. Some times I press harder on the clutch then other times, but very frustrating if you don’t know what’s going on.
There is a schrader valve on the back of the intake manifold (located on the fuel line). It is there to check fuel pressure.
Get a high pressure fuel pressure gauge and check output pressure of the pump (just turn the key, pump primes the lines).
If you have less than 40 PSI, you need a new pump.
These pumps don’t always die at once, sometimes they go intermittent, or put out low pressure before they quit.
On that engine, IIRC, the function of the crank position sensor is done by the distributor. If you have good fuel pressure, the next likely fix is to replace the distributor.
That bumping sounds like it was a fuel supply problem, not electrical. Keep it simple, though and check the free and cheap stuff first. Piss anybody off lately? Might be something sweet smelling near the top of the filler neck? Check the filter. Nothing foreign? Change the filter. Run til you empty the tank, change the filter again and check it again. Fill the tank and repeat. If it is dirty, it’s contamination, probably not just water, either.
If it’s clean and it happens again have the wiring checked and there ain’t any loose connections, no drips, etc. If not, chances are you got a bad fuel pump. If it was the starter there would probably be a dead spot and it wouldn’t crank every time. An alternator could cause the chug, but the battery would go flat if it wan’t working - no cranking every time.
If it is the fuel supply, it would choke off the fuel and cause the chug/no start, but probably only if something was crystallizing and/or dirty enough to be visible. New tanks can be expensive, but cheaper than a new truck. Unless you been looking for a good reason to get a new truck.
Get a can of ether spray start and next time it does this, give it a shot in the intake. If it starts and runs a few seconds, then you have a fuel issue.
Still no start, it’s ignition.
My bet is on the fuel pump. An in tank fuel pump is cooled by the fuel. If you tend to run it down to “E” before filling, the pump will fail sooner. You need a fuel pressure test to confirm if pressure is within spec.
I have seen chafed wires above the crank shaft position sensor cause a intermittent problem like this also. Apparently it lost track of where the engine was and it even seemed like the trans freaked out. First time it happened, I thought I had run over something.
It’s not the starter. He said it jerked a few times while driving home. The starter does not effect how the vehicle runs.
Plus, the starter will either just click or make grinding or whining noise when trying to start. He did not describe either one of those symptoms.
Your truck has two fuel filters. One is probably along the frame. The other is in the fuel tank.
recheck battery cables, clean corrosive material off all terminal anything............
I think it might be the frequency modulation sensor, located at the lower right hand side of the ignition data acquisition system.
To troubleshoot, follow the procedures as enumerated in the vehicle manual ev659, subject to the GPA 2009 40056.78 standards.
An alternate procedure can be used for older vehicles, involving rural standards and squirrel entrails.
Usually problems like this are directly attibutable to the carbon unit.
/s ;)
Or, the Dilithium Crystals may not have been mined correctly.
That was the squirrels he ran over...It is the latter symptoms that are key...:-)
injectors was my first thought...
Two initial steps:
1. Can you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the switch on?
2. Does it have spark?
3. If both of the above are OK, squirt some gas into the throttle body, and turn the key to start.
4. Did the engine catch briefly, then die?
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