Posted on 03/05/2014 4:18:58 AM PST by MeneMeneTekelUpharsin
A Star Super S .380 (the one with the quick release lever) is jamming on first round. The gun is in mint condition and appears to have hardly ever been fired. The extractor is in excellent condition and the spring has good load behind it. The extractor end looks to be fine. However, when the gun is loaded and the slide pulled back, every round cycles out of the gun flawlessly. It only jams when fired.
My guess is the recoil spring is too strong. Any suggestions on solutions? Numrich doesn't have one in stock to use to modify nor does Wolff Springs. Need to find one to cut down to reduce the load to see if it will cycle properly. I'd rather not fire hot rounds through the pistol to see if it will cycle, but will try that for a temporary result.
Anyone able to help?
I had this problem with a Ruger 9mm. I sent it to them several times and they returned it no-problem-found. I then videoed me firing the gun and the gun jamming. I had a friend fire it in case I was limp-wristing it. They allowed me to replace it with a different model, but denied there was a problem. 1. Video the problem and return it to the manufacturer with the video. 2. It may be a tolerance build-up issue. As the gun heats from repeat firings some parts expand out of tolerance. (That, I’m certain, was my issue.)
Oh, one more thing, buy different ammo. My Kahrr (sp?) will only fire certain ammo. Some 9mm is 1”1/16 and some is 1”3/16. My gun will only fire the former.
Sell it and buy another brand That’s what I did with mine never could get it to function right.
I ended up with a Walther PPK the star seems like a neat little pistol but if they don’t work they go down the road.
Not enough information. “Jamming” means what? Failure to feed? Failure to extract? Stovepipe? Have you tried firing with a different magazine or firing with just one round to see if it’s a magazine or feed ramp problem? Have you tried different brand ammo?
A cartridge diameter difference of 1/8th inch?!?! That’s a BIG difference for a cartridge let alone the actual bullet. You sure you don’t mean 1/32nd or 1/16th inch?
Get a Glock 42. That’s what I’m going to do when I have the funds.
I assume the spent cartridge is not ejecting. Either the tolerances between the chamber and the brass you are using is too tight after firing or the spring on the ejector is too weak to grip and hold the cartridge during extraction.
Revolvers eat anything you feed them, and also go BANG every time.
“As the gun heats from repeat firings some parts expand out of tolerance”
The OP has the malfunction only on the first round. Maybe he’s got the opposite problem -something is out of tolerance and the heat from the first round gets it into range.
Anyway, if it was me, I’d take the other advice of selling it and picking up something else.
That looks like quite a large piece for a .380. Wouldn’t something smaller like the S&W Bodyguard be a better choice?
Get something more reliable.
Cartridge length, not diameter.
????
really?
I prefer guns that go off when I WANT THEM TO.
a ruger LCP .380 is nice but still plastic.(a little ‘whippy’ as it is so light) it never fails to fire either with factory or my reloads...
a Colt Mustang with aluminum frame is light enough but a solid piece. mine is a steel frame, a little heavy but it also never fails to fire either with factory or my reloads....ever!
Yeah, really. I was going to mention the LCP too. I love the Colt Mustang. Great design.
Failure to extract all of the way. No stovepipe. Haven’t tried different ammo, but will do that next. Gun is nearly new, even though vintage model.
You're right. Cartridge doesn't eject (barely out). Gun is mint, like-new so extractor spring isn't the issue and certainly doesn't feel like it on depression with finger.
my mustang is from the 90s and even then they cheaped out by putting a plastic trigger and guide rod. around 5 years ago it started have jam problems, I took it apart and found the trigger has a thin steel rod going from it to the sear. the hole in the trigger that actuates the rod was elongated and almost torn through....I went on line and bought an aftermarket aluminum trigger and rod. no problems since then.
I do believe that plastic guns and parts are fine if you don’t care to practice a lot....I tend to shoot hundreds of round through any gun I bring to the range. had I just kept it loaded in my pocket for protection, it would still be working today with its original parts...
Suggest you try this in order. Make only one change at a time to try to isolate the problem. It is the process I have always used with sticky actions.
1. Thoroughly clean and lubricate the pistol.
a. look for any obvious rough spots on the slide and frame.
b. stone or emory or file off any rough spots.
c. Examine the chamber and spent brass for any markings.
-if found, you can lightly polish the chamber with product/tools made specially to do so (check Midway/Brownwells) or just use car paint rub out product and a tightly wrapped cleaning jag attached to a drill motor.
d. examine the extractor for burrs. Make sure it is not bent and is seating correctly.
2. At the range,
a. hold the pistol firmly in a strong grip Weaver stance and the wrist locked bracing against the anticipated recoil.
b. Try a variety of full metal jacket ammo. The heavier the bullet the better. Franchi and Sellier and Bellot ammo seem to be hotter than US loads and would be what the Star was designed with in mind.
3. Count on sending 200-300 rounds down range to “break it in” once it starts to work more reliably.
Good luck and have some fun making it work.
My favorite “fun gun” is a 30 year old Star Model B in 9mm.
Sell it, and stick with Kimber .45
There is no substitute, and when you need it to work, it will.
1 1/16” diameter round? And we thought the 50cal was a Hoss.
Pays to sometimes re-read before posting.......
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