Posted on 05/25/2006 2:25:29 AM PDT by LibWhacker
A handful of venerable Californian wines have once again beaten their French counterparts - in a re-run of the Paris Tasting of 1976.
Against all expectations the Cabernets Ridge Monte Bello 1971, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 1973, Mayacamas 71, Heitz 70 and Clos du Val 72 were voted superior to their rivals in Bordeaux.
In yesterday's extraordinary series of coordinated tastings in London and California, hosted by Steven Spurrier, some of the world's most eminent tasters found the Californian wines to have retained more of their verve over the years than the Bordeaux.
Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, Matthew Jukes, Michel Bettane, Michael Broadbent, Spurrier himself and other eminent critics, pitted Leoville Las Cases 71, Mouton 70, Haut Brion and Montrose 70 against the Californians.
It took place in utmost seriousness and totally blind conditions at the headquarters of Berry Brothers in St James's in the centre of London in the early evening. Simultaneously, at the Copia Center in Napa, the same wines were tasted by an equally eminent panel.
There were also tastings by panels of journalists of later vintages of Bordeaux and California cabernets, Burgundies and California chardonnays.
The wines were simply ranked 1-6 and the scores totalled. The tasters were impressed with the quality of the wines after 30 years. 'They were amazingly fit,' Jukes said. Bettane pointed out that then 'it was a different winemaking world, but some of the wines were very good'.
Panel members said they found it almost impossible to tell the French and American wines apart, either by tannins or fruit quality. There were universal nods of assent when Brian St Pierre, another of the panellists, said he found the whole thing 'thrilling'.
The tasting was an exact rerun with the same wines of the Paris Tasting of 24 May 1976, in which Stag's Leap and Ridge were voted superior to the French wines by a panel of eminent French critics.
That decision shook the wine world, but last night was carried out in a spirit of celebration and as at the end of dinner at the opulent RAC Club Spurrier used a rickety phone and speaker system to patch through to Napa hilarity.
'My God, they're on,' he said, as if he was coordinating the first landings on Mars. 'We're just on the cheese and we're moving onto desserts,' Napa said.
The scores from London and America were efficiently totted up and the totals announced. 'So California wins!' Spurrier said, to laughter and applause.
The veteran critic had been convinced France would be voted the best. Both Warren Winiarski of Stag's Leap and Paul Draper of Ridge had said their wines hadn't lasted that well.
Along with the celebration, Spurrier allowed himself a moment of schadenfreude as he contemplated the fact that the Bordeaux chateaux had sent wine for the tastings of later vintages but had refused to supply any of the old vintages. Instead he bought all the wines from 'the most irreproachable sources'.
Thinking about the result, and how it would be received across the Channel, he said happily, 'So, Spurrier's name will be mud again.'
Wow, I haven't heard anything about that. Recently?
Ping!
L
I'm looking forward to having a really good California cab someday. I haven't yet (but only because I haven't popped for one of those really expensive, highly rated cabs yet). I'm sure they're delicious!
yeah, but UCD initially screwed that up and almost made it worse by using the wrong vines
I worked for Gallo in college... Waded in ankle-deep rivers of their cheapest wines every night one summer. Swore off wine for 20 years after that, lol.
Nothing beats this classic. Hey, and it has a convenient thumb ring, too!
Screw top wins over cork!
Wine ... stale grape juice. How the heck do you people drink that stuff! Its like eating moldy bread.
But a good glass of 80 proof brandy or whiskey ... now your talking.
I recall news of the French fungus problem, too, but as I read the report, that's not of interest: this was a tasting mostly of the same vintages that were compared in 1976, but with an additional 30 years of aging (with a few
newer 'stars' from both sides thrown in).
You just do not understand
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