Hi sissyjane,
I am not qualified to make the call here.
If what I am calling the belay station is left (east) of the snowcave, then it would seem they were traversing to Cooper Spur for a quicker and easier exit... which would also be in line with Nikko's inquiries at cascadeclimbers.com, (It was one of the routes he proposed as an exit), and suggests that they were reasonably on their mark when they commenced descent.
But another thing comes into play too, if they were under pressure:
I can guarantee that some of the known routes are bolted, IOW, have permanent bolts to clip to in opportune places...
They may have been trying for a bolted route for descent, as they could descend quickly, perhaps having to sacrifice a beener (carabiner) on every pitch, but that would be cheap for a quick descent...
They might also have been ascending to the summit, as that would get them quickly to the east/southeast side, lee of the storm, which would be coming in from West/Northwest (center/right).
Sorry, I could be all wet. One would best get an opinion from the local boys.
-Bruce
I wouldn't ask a question on that site to save my life. ;>) I haven't even registered....just lurked!
I read your scenario, sj, and had previously read roamer's. Correct me, either of you, but don't we all agree that the 3 were likely ok when they built the real snow cave and sheltered there?
They had been to the summit we know that.
So all that was left was for them to get down, and they obviously had to have concerns about the weather. Question was, how best and quickest to get down, and what actions would they take to get in position to go their chosen route, and what part would the degree of terrible weather play in their ability to do this.
SJ you had them attempting to decend and an accident occurring with only James left alive or at least functioning and at that location. Roamer has them either ascending or traversing and an accident occurring. This I'm sure would have been for the purpose of getting to where they COULD descend the mountain by whatever route they chose.
I don't see very much difference between you. Hope I'm not missing something.
Finally, some have speculated that they meant to descend by one route but MISSED that one and, overtaken by the severe weather, were trying an alternate one that was available, whether it was best or not. Anything at that point to get down.
I also think it matters IF the axes left behind in the "not a real cave" location belong to Kelly James (if they do) and that that would fit roamer's scenario.