Posted on 03/09/2014 6:00:09 AM PDT by dontreadthis
It didn’t cure any of them.
So to answer your question, it can be limited to or from anything ranging from a half amp all the way to 1000 amps. So remember wherever they refer to "motor" it refers as well to your household service if needed.
P031 [Motor Nameplate Volts] Set to the Value on the motor nameplate rated Volts. 20 to Drive Rated Volts 1 VAC Based on Drive Rating
P032 [Motor Nameplate Hertz] Set to the Value on the motor nameplate rated Frequency. 15 to 400 Hz 1 Hz 60 Hz
P033 [Motor Overload Current] Set the maximum allowable motor current. 0.0 to (Drive Rated Amps x2) 0.1 Amps Based on Drive Rating
P034 [Minimum Frequency] Sets the lowest frequency that the drive will output continuously. 0.0 to 400 Hz 0.1 Hz 0.0 Hz
P035 [Maximum Frequency]
Sets the highest frequency that the drive will output continuously. 0.0 to 400 Hz 1 Hz 60 Hz
P036 [Start Source] Sets the source that will be used to start the drive. 0 to 6 0 = Keypad 1 = 3 Wire 2 = 2 Wire 3 = 2 Wire Level Sensor 4 = 2 Wire High Speed 5 = Communication Port 6 = Momentum FWD/REV 0 P037 [Stop Mode]
Sets how the drive will be stopped. 1Stop input also clears active fault. 0 to 9 0 = Ramp, CF 1 1 = Coast, CF 1 2 = DC Brake, CF 1 3 = DC Brake Auto, CF 1 4 = Ramp 5 = Coast 6 = DC Brake 7 = DC Brake Auto 8 = Ramp + Emerg. Brake, CF 9 = Ramp + Emerg. Brake 0
P038 [Speed Reference] Sets the source of the speed reference to the drive. 0 to 7 0 = Drive Potentiometer 1 = Internal Frequency 2 = 0-10V input 3 = 4-20mA input 4 = Preset Frequency 5 = Communication Port(BINGO-HERE IS WHERE THEY CONTROL YOU) 6 = Step Logic 7 = Analog In Multispeed 0 1 (IP66, Type 4x)
P039 [Acceleration time 1] Sets the rate of acceleration for all speed increases 0.0 to 600 Secs 0.1 Secs 10.0 Secs P040 [Deceleration time 1 Sets the rate of deceleration for all speed decreases 0.0 to 600 Secs 0.1 Secs 10.0 Secs P041 [Reset To Defaults]
Resets all drive parameters to factory defaults. 0 or 1 0 = Idle State 1 = Reset Defaults 0 P042 [Voltage Class]
Sets the Voltage Class of 600V Drive 2 or 3 2 = Low Voltage (480V) 3 = High Voltage (600V) 3
P043 [Motor Overload Retention] Enables/Disables the motor overload Retention function 0 or 1 0 = Disabled 1= Enabled 0 1. Once at desired group press the enter key. 2. Navigate to the correct parameter using the up or down arrow once found press enter. 3. To edit this value press enter and use up & down arrows to edit to move to next digit to left use select key. 4. Once value has been select press enter to confirm and press esc key to return to menu 4. How to change a parameter value. 5. List of basic parameters to set up drive for use. = Stop the drive before changing the parameter
These are based on my choices, not a smart meter. I could potentially pull over 1,000 amps if things turned on willy-nilly based on unthinking useage patterns. Instead my computer bits with a value tag and compare and limit tables. I can run all the same equipment efficiently and never exceed 250 AMPS IF I CHOOSE! It has nothing to do with smart meters. They have no idea.
The dishwasher waits to run if the hot tub is running.
The pool pump shuts off if the hot water heater turns on.
The air conditioning / heating can be assigned priority. If the outside air temperature goes below freezing, my pool pumps take priority in switching.
It's all really simple and requires an ethernet connection loop in your house. A desktop or a PLC rack can do it for you. Maybe a days worth of programming.
Relays are easily defeated
Smart meters are unhealthy to the occupants of the home. I let them put one in (meter is behind master bedroom of our home) and experienced sleepless nights and other health problems. I opted out and had them install the old meter type. My electric bill with smart meter increased by approximately 15 percent... since getting the old meter back...I am right at past usage. I did however get a bit of flack from SCE... over-billing and lack of cooperation with dispute of the bill. I think they ripped me off for about 75 bucks over that dispute, but they refuse to work with you, they don’t have to and they know it. Smart meter is all about challenging your lying eyes. Give me the old meter technology on anything.. new tech is manipulated much too easily..
I’m still at home base, I thought I’d be off on the ocean weeks/months ago. So I might do another Kindle freebie for all of my books before I go. I have to check how many “free” days I have left on the Kindle promos. If I do it, it’ll be this week but it won’t be heavily promoted. Just a few notices on FB and maybe on FR and Western Rifle Shooters.
“explain to me how a smart meter “remotely disconnects services”.
The power company does quality-of-service on customers. They will limit or shutoff service to some customers to provide electricity to business customers when power is strained. No more brown outs, replacing inefficient transformers or lines. They simply dial-down the customers as needed and upgrade their equipment when it suits them.
Hope you will stay on the internet for email and such instead of completely dropping off the information grid a la Castigo Cay.
I’ll try. But I’m not taking a sat phone or other long range internet comms. I’ll get wifi when and where it’s available.
I think the reason they are worried is that the meters might be giving off radiation.
I suggest tin foil....
You are exactly correct....they do not have switches in them. The main breaker, separate from the meter, serves that purpose and you have control of it.
They can do that, but they don’t do it with smart meters..they do it by shutting off portions of the grid.
Older meters have known issues with accuracy...not much deviation but 10-15% is not unusual, Any meter change, even to the older style might result in a noticeable change in bills.
Smart meters radio output is no higher than a garage door opener or blue tooth device. You get a lot more radiation from you TV, Laptop, cell phone..
All a “smart” meter does is to replace the function of a meter reader coming to your property to record the little dials. Which is more an invasion of your privacy? Having the unit send a quick message back up to the utility... or having an employee physically enter your property whenever they want?
If they want to manipulate the data, they can do it with a PENCIL. They don’t need any new technology to do it.
Actually... more to the point: Before the smart meters, many electric companies didn’t actually bother to send out meter readers every month to every address. They’d guess. What they’d do is just estimate what the historical average usage was, and send out bills based on those estimates. Then maybe every six months or so they’d finally get a meter reader around, get a new “true” reading, and true-up the bill to that new reading.
There’s nothing particularly wrong with such a practice. It helped them contain costs by needing fewer meter readers. Over time everybody got trued-up so nobody got ripped off, at least in the long run.
That one has no remote disconnect option.
We have three “smart” digital meters, they are a different brand.
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