Posted on 03/29/2003 4:05:13 PM PST by Diogenez
Australia's Cachet
In retrospect, it was inevitable. Australian wine has become such a hot commodity that many of the most desirable wines disappear from the market as soon as they get here. It's the same phenomenon that makes Burgundies from tiny domaines, the latest super Tuscans and trendy new California Cabernets so hard to find.
But that's all part of the warp and woof of the wine world, just another sign that Australia has arrived on the international scene as a producer of serious wines. Until recently, a few large companies made and shipped most of the Aussie wines we Americans could get. Fortunately, that included some of the country's best; Penfolds, a division of Southcorp, Australia's largest wine company, made Grange 1990, Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year in 1995.
But, as happens in California, Oregon, Washington and Italy, hand-crafted wines from small producers have a special cachet, a personal touch. Australians call these artisans "smallmakers," and they climb all over themselves to grab the wines. Lately, a number of small firms are supplying consumers in the United States with some of the wines.
Importers such as Kooka Wines and Old Bridge Cellars fill their catalogs with many of these hard-to-find wines. Even some California wineries are importing Australian wines.
John Larchet and his partner, Grant van Every, owners of Stella's restaurant in Melbourne, created the Australian Premium Wine Collection in Australia precisely to fill the gaps. They chose wines from a dozen producers scattered over the continent, dressed up the bottles with a neck label identifying them as APWC selections, and shipped them off to the U.S. in mid-1996. The wines sold out so fast that the introductory tour last fall was cut short .
Significantly, APWC accounts for six of the 23 wines scoring 92 points or better (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale) in this 357-wines-long report, which collects all of Wine Spectator's reviews of Aussie wines since our last summary look (June 30, 1996). For the record, big companies produced about half of the top two dozen wines, and Southcorp was responsible for five of those. Australian wine in the U.S. presents a healthy mix of big and small producers, widely available and scarce wines. Size is clearly not the critical factor.
Shiraz, Australia's strongest category, provides ample examples. Once again Grange stands at the top, the 1991 vintage scoring 95 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, just a couple of ticks behind the even more fabulous 1990. Keeping it company is Astralis 1995, the new super-Shiraz from Clarendon Hills. We rate it on a par with Grange 1991, although the styles could not be more dissimilar. Where Grange goes for as many exotic overtones as possible, Astralis aims for solid blackberry and spice flavors and a distinctive personality. There's nothing else quite like it. Both wines cost more than $100 a bottle.
Closer to Earth, nine Shiraz priced at $24 to $40 scored 92 to 94 points, including Clarendon Hills' Rhône-like, earthy, estate Shiraz 1995 (92, $33) and Elderton's explosively concentrated Command Shiraz 1992 (94, $34). The group at that level includes St. Hallett Old Block 1993 (93, $27), the best vintage yet of this densely flavorful Barossa Shiraz, and Coriole Lloyd Reserve 1993 (92, $36), another remarkable, low-production wine. But the debut vintage of Seaview's deep, powerfully focused Edwards & Chaffey Shiraz 1994 (92, $27) and Seppelt's Shiraz Chalambar 1994 (92, $14), a stunning wine of silky ripeness from western Victoria, both come from wineries under the Southcorp umbrella.
The Shiraz and Shiraz-blend categories together yielded 23 of the 55 wines rated outstanding (90 points or more) in this report. The top Shiraz-blend was Lindemans Limestone Ridge 1993 (94, $28), a jazzy, juicy, harmonious blend of Coonawarra Shiraz (84 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Another winner making its U.S. debut: Clancy's Gold Preference 1994 (93, $18), Peter Lehmann's blend of Shiraz and various Bordeaux varieties, disarmingly seductive, offering plum and exotic spice flavors on a smooth frame.
Rosemount Syrah Balmoral 1994 (93, $40), all blueberry, blackberry, pepper and cream, continues the string of aristocratic bottlings this wine has manifested since its inception in the 1990 vintage. The price is up, ho wever.
Cabernet Sauvignon (and blends thereof) produced eight outstanding wines, including the smooth, complex, coffee-scented Henschke Cyril Henschke 1993 (94, $66), just a step or two ahead of graceful, plummy Penfolds Bin 707 1993 (92, $45) and the jazzy, polished Hardys Thomas Hardy 1992 (92, $45). Also in there is another Edwards & Chaffey debut wine from Seaview--the 1994 Cabernet (91, $27), with its rich plum and chocolate flavors.
The other red category of note uses various Rhône varieties à la Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It's not a big category in Australia, but we flipped over several single-vineyard Grenache wines from Clarendon Hills, wines exhibiting power and grace not usually achieved by Grenache. Charles Melton Nine Popes Red 1995 (92, $35) blends Grenache with 30 percent Shiraz and 2 percent Mourvèdre, creating an exuberant wine of extraordinary dimensions. At half the price, Rosemount's new GSM McLaren Vale 1994 (91, $16), also a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, layers spice, plum and earthy-mushroom grace notes that take off like a rocket.
Although most of its top-tier table wines now exceed $20 a bottle, Australia continues to offer high quality levels at more moderate prices, too. Perennial "Best Buy" Rosemount Shiraz wowed us again with the 1995 (90, $10) for its zingy black cherry and plum flavors. A couple of bucks more buys the ripe, smoky ooziness of Yalumba Shiraz Family Reserve 1995 (90, $12), the dry, citrusy-apricot flavors of Wolf Blass Riesling Gold Label 1996 (90, $12) or the bright juiciness of Lindemans Chardonnay Padthaway 1995 (91, $13). And don't forget that Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz at $14 or the Clancy's Gold Preference at $18.
Australian Chardonnay, always a hit-or-miss category, is showing more consistency. The top wines are also attractively priced compared with top wines from California, Washington and Oregon, let alone the white Burgundies. Goundrey, one of the larger wineries in Western Australia, debuts here with the top Chardonnay on our current list, the honey-scented, harmonious Mount Barker Reserve 1995 (93, $18). Another eye-opener is Goundrey's jazzy, fruit-centered Unwooded Chardonnay 1996 (88, $10).
There are nine Chardonnays rating outstanding this time, plus a raft of them good enough to score in the high 80s. Most cost $20 or less.
Australia also excels, as usual, with sweet wines. This year, the star was Hardys Tawny Port Whiskers Blake NV (94, $13), a tremendously complex wine for the price, offering layers of caramel, walnut, coffee, almond and orange-peel flavors. In another style, Chateau Reynella delivers an amazingly supple and spicy character in its Museum Release 1981 (93, $15).
Finally, Australia makes late-harvest Rieslings worthy of careful scrutiny. Of special interest: cult-favorite Mount Horrocks Riesling Cordon Cut 1996 (94, $17/375ml), a unique wine made by cutting the fruit-bearing canes but letting them hang, partially attached, until the grapes are dessicated. The wine is luscious and raisiny, with enough acidity to balance the sweetness.
For the record, several wineries that have performed well in previous years did not get wines to us for review in time for this report, including Coldstream Hills, McWilliam's, Leeuwin Estate, Craiglee and De Bortoli.
Harvey Steiman, editor at large, blind tasted the wines for this annual report and wrote the analysis. He has been tasting wine professionally for 24 years, the last 13 of them with Wine Spectator.
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Harvey Steiman's Top-Scoring White and Dessert Wines From Australia Wine / Score / Price
WHITE
GOUNDREY Chardonnay Mount Barker Reserve 1995 / 93 / $18
Appealing for its harmony and layers of flavors and textures. Ripe, spicy and smooth, it's delicious.
GROSSET Riesling Clare Valley Polish Hill 1996 / 91 / $19
A dry style, bright and zingy, its flavors lively through the long finish and just crisp enough for a charming balance.
LENSWOOD Chardonnay Lenswood 1995 / 91 / $21
Fresh and appealing for its spicy, citrusy intensity, ripe pear and honey flavors. A serious Chardonnay.
LINDEMANS Chardonnay Padthaway 1995 / 91 / $13
Ripe, round and juicily bright, with fruity flavors, toast and nutmeg notes, long finish. Stylish, tightly wound.
MITCHELTON Chardonnay Victoria Reserve 1994 / 91 / $16
Supple, generous and beautifully proportioned, a sleek wine with lovely flavors, a glorious finish. Has depth.
WOLF BLASS Riesling South Australia Gold Label 1996 / 90 / $12
Dry and flavorful, with a marvelous array of fruit and floral flavors, a lively, just off-dry finish. Delicious.
HOWARD PARK Chardonnay Western Australia 1995 / 90 / $28
Powerfully focused, with mouthfilling flavors that linger enticingly on the finish. Has remarkable depth and harmony.
PETALUMA Chardonnay South Australia Piccadilly Valley 1995 / 90 / $21
Elegant and subtle. Well balanced to show its spicy, tobacco-scented side, with meaty fruit flavors, harmonious finish.
SEPPELT Chardonnay Victoria Victorian Portfolio Corella Ridge 1995 / 90 / $14
Very pretty, delicate in aroma and rich in flavor and texture, finishing with length and grace. Delicious.
TYRRELL'S Chardonnay Hunter Valley Shee-Oak 1996 / 90 / $20
Bright and spicy, with lively pear and honey flavors that pick up spice and vanilla nuances on the elegant finish.
VASSE FELIX Chardonnay Western Australia 1996 / 90 / $21
Dripping with personality, this rolls out spicy pear and distinctive earthy, tarry overtones that linger on the smoky finish.
DESSERT
HARDYS Tawny Port South Australia Whiskers Blake NV / 94 / $13
Wow. Succulent and smooth, tremendously complex in flavor, long, elegant and spicy in the mouth.
MOUNT HORROCKS Riesling Watervale Cordon Cut 1996 / 94 / $17 /375ml
Rich and luscious, with fruit and honey flavors that cascade through the silky finish and mouthwatering acidity to balance.
CHATEAU REYNELLA Port McLaren Vale Museum Release 1981 / 93 / $15
Sweet and supple, ripe and spicy, playing out its vanilla- scented plum, blackberry and tar flavors with elegance.
HEGGIES Riesling Eden Valley Botrytis 1996 / 92 / $14 / 375ml
Remarkable harmony, weaving floral, apricot and honey / flavors, juicy sweetness, acidity. Graceful finish.
BENJAMIN Tawny Port Australia NV / 91 / $10
A multilayered dessert wine with waves of supple, complex flavors and a silky finish. Darned fine.
HUNTER RIDGE Tawny Port South Eastern Australia Grand Show NV / 91 / $18/500ml
Dark and complex, with walnut- and nutmeg-scented coffee, chocolate, orange-peel flavors. Elegantly balanced.
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Harvey Steiman's Top-Scoring Red Wines From Australia Wine / Score / Price
RED
CLARENDON HILLS Shiraz Clarendon Astralis 1995 / 95 / $120
Distinctive. Deep, dark and juicy, with crisp acidity to balance the solid flavors. Jazzy finish, impressive length.
PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia Grange 1991 / 95 / $110
Thick, rich and powerful, with layer upon layer of flavors
that resonate engagingly and impressively on the long finish.
ELDERTON Shiraz Barossa Valley Command 1992 / 94 / $34
Rich, ripe and amazingly concentrated, its almost explosive flavors shaded with nuances of licorice, herbs.
HENSCHKE Cabernet Sauvignon Eden Valley Cyril Henschke 1993 / 94 / $66
Loaded with personality. Smooth, ripe, with complex flavors, round and smoky on the finish. Finely grained tannins.
LINDEMANS Shiraz-Cabernet Coonawarra Limestone Ridge Vineyard 1993 / 94 / $28
Jazzy stuff, with its dazzling flavors, almost breathtaking purity of fruit, long and surprisingly harmonious finish.
CLANCY'S Clancy's Gold Preference Barossa Valley 1994 / 93 / $18
Disarmingly seductive with plum, black cherry and exotic spices on the harmonious finish. Has style and power.
LEASINGHAM Shiraz Clare Valley Classic Clare 1994 / 93 / $24
Impressive. Rich, smooth and powerful, showing intensity of color, dark, complex flavors and length.
ROSEMOUNT Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral 1994 / 93 / $40
Deep and aristocratic, an elegant wine with power, layer upon layer of flavors and a fine mesh of tannins.
ST. HALLETT Shiraz Barossa Old Block 1993 / 93 / $27
Rich, spicy and complex, its generous fruit laced with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and roasted notes. Full-bodied.
CLARENDON HILLS Grenache Clarendon Blewitt Springs Vineyard 1995 / 92 / $28
Dense, with gobs of spice-scented flavors. Well balanced, with chewy tannins and oak on the finish.
CLARENDON HILLS Shiraz Clarendon 1995 / 92 / $33
Dense and unusually Rhône-like for an Aussie Shiraz, with earth-accented fruit flavors. Unique and stylish.
CORIOLE Shiraz McLaren Vale Lloyd Reserve 1993 / 92 / $36
Mouthfilling, ripe and generous with its spicy fruit and anise character. Focused and bright with youthful vigor.
HARDYS Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Thomas Hardy 1992 / 92 / $45
Bright and polished, with pinpoint-focus, the juicy fruit and mint flavors remain jazzy and balanced through the long finish.
CHARLES MELTON Nine Popes Barossa Valley 1995 / 92 / $35
Exuberantly fruity and flavorful. A gonzo wine yet with elegance, it's smooth and balanced through the finish.
PENFOLDS Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Bin 707 1993 / 92 / $45
Graceful style, with generous fruit flavors that swirl nicely on the artfully integrated finish. Character builds with each sip.
SEAVIEW Shiraz McLaren Vale Edwards & Chaffey 1994 / 92 / $27
A real beauty. Has depth, richness, power and elegance in one package, with fruit and spice flavors in abundance.
SEPPELT Shiraz Victoria Chalambar 1994 / 92 / $14
Ripe, and silky smooth, with generous dark fruit and oak flavors that linger enticingly on the long finish.
YALUMBA Shiraz Barossa Octavius Old Vine 1992 / 92 / $40
Yummy, rich and generous, with a minty accent to the ripe fruit, spice and tar flavors and a long, elegant, chewy finish.
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Best-Value Wines From Australia at $10 or Less Wine / Score / Price
RED VALUES
ROSEMOUNT Shiraz South Australia 1995 / 90 / $10
A zinger of a wine, packed with rich, dark flavors on a crisp frame. Approachable now, will flesh out if cellared.
WYNDHAM Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia Bin 444 1995 / 88 / $10
Big, chewy, bursting with brilliant flavors that cascade into a long, elegant finish. Tannins are beautifully integrated.
LINDEMANS Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia Bin 45 1995 / 87 / $8
Notable for its approachable texture, with ripe, juicy Cabernet flavors on a velvety frame. Achieves clarity and finesse.
ROTHBURY Shiraz South Eastern Australia 1994 / 87 / $8
A lighter style, yet packed with flavors. Finishes with appealing length and harmony.
PENFOLDS Shiraz-Mourvèdre South Eastern Australia Bin 2 1994 / 86 / $10
Firmly textured, with a solid dose of spicy plum and black cherry flavors, a hint of anise on the supple finish.
ROSEMOUNT Grenache-Shiraz South Eastern Australia 1996 / 86 / $8
A Rhône-style blend marked by dazzling color and exuberant flavors, it's rich and dense yet appealingly fresh.
WHITE VALUES
GOUNDREY Chardonnay Mount Barker Unwooded 1996 / 88 / $10
Ready-to-drink, highlighted by jazzy passion fruit, apple and spice flavors that step gracefully around a silky core.
McGUIGAN BROTHERS Sauvignon Blanc South Eastern Australia Bin 8000 1996 / 88 / $8
Refreshing, emphasizing zingy citrus, passion fruit and green apple flavors that remain vibrant through the lingering finish.
SEAVIEW Chardonnay McLaren Vale 1996 / 88 / $9
Fresh and lively, with vivid, inviting flavors that linger on the well-buffed finish. Has style and elegance.
SEPPELT Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Reserve Bin 1996 / 88 / $9 Stylish and flavorful. Elegant, it's lean and delicate up front, gaining richness as the ripe, spicy flavors pile up on the finish.
ST. HALLETT Poacher's Blend Barossa 1996 / 88 / $10
Light, crisp and refreshing, with a slight grass accent to the fruit flavors. Finishes gracefully, and with charm.
TALTARNI Sauvignon Blanc Victoria 1996 / 88 / $10
Bright and fresh, a mouthful of nice nectarine and apple flavors. Lingering finish, with a grassy note.
MILBURN PARK Chardonnay Victoria 1995 / 87 / $9
Soft and generous, its fruit and mineral flavors creamy on the finish, balanced by a delicate zing of acidity.
MCGUIGAN BROTHERS Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Bin 7000 1996 / 86 / $8
A fresh and zingy style, with interesting starfruit, apple and pineapple flavors that linger on the solid finish.
PENFOLDS Sémillon-Chardonnay South Australia Koonunga Hill 1996 / 86 / $7
Easy-drinking, smooth in texture, its creamy pear flavors enlivened by citrus and green apple notes that echo on the finish.
ROSEMOUNT Chardonnay South Australia 1996 / 86 / $10
Smooth, polished, attractive for its spicy vanilla and pear flavors shaded by sage and mineral on the finish.
ROSEMOUNT Sémillon Hunter Valley 1996 / 86 / $10
Light and almost crisp, with a tight bud of pear and earthy mineral flavors. Shows charm.
ROSEMOUNT Sémillon-Chardonnay South Eastern Australia 1996 / 86 / $7.50
Appealing now with its spicy pear and pineapple flavors, ripe, generous and fresh through the lively finish.
ROSEMOUNT Traminer-Riesling South Eastern Australia 1996 / 86 / $7.50
Richly textured, ripe and floral, with pleasant peach, rose petal and pear flavors that linger on the full finish.
TYRRELL'S Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Old Winery 1996 / 86 / $10
Ripe, charming and almost delicate after all, with spicy pear and mineral flavors that echo on the subtle finish.
OTHER VALUES
BENJAMIN Port Australia Tawny NV / 91 / $10
A multilayered dessert wine with waves of supple, complex flavors and a silky finish. Darned fine.
6/30/97
Try Llano and Messina Hoff. They're as good as you can get.
$6.50 at Walmart
"Black Stump Bordeaux" is rightly praised as a peppermint flavoured Burgundy, whilst a good "Sydney Syrup" can rank with any of the world's best sugary wines.
"Chateau Bleu", too, has won many prizes; not least for its taste, and its lingering afterburn.
"Old Smokey, 1968" has been compared favourably to a Welsh claret, whilst the Australian wino society thouroughly recommends a 1970 "Coq du Rod Laver", which, believe me, has a kick on it like a mule: 8 bottles of this, and you're really finished -- at the opening of the Sydney Bridge Club, they were fishing them out of the main sewers every half an hour.
Of the sparkling wines, the most famous is "Perth Pink". This is a bottle with a message in, and the message is BEWARE!. This is not a wine for drinking -- this is a wine for laying down and avoiding.
Another good fighting wine is "Melbourne Old-and-Yellow", which is particularly heavy, and should be used only for hand-to-hand combat.
Quite the reverse is true of "Chateau Chunder", which is an Appelachian controle, specially grown for those keen on regurgitation -- a fine wine which really opens up the sluices at both ends.
Real emetic fans will also go for a "Hobart Muddy", and a prize winning "Cuiver Reserve Chateau Bottled Nuit San Wogga Wogga", which has a bouquet like an aborigine's armpit.
If you want to support our Ozzie pals, demand that they export 'Victoria Bitter' (aka "VB") beer to America. I've had a few, and am convinced that it's the best beer on Earth.
Fosters is regarded in Australia in the same way that Budweiser is in America.
Been drinking that one for several years. An excellent value and readily available. Good starting point for anyone interested in trying Aussie wines. Lindemans also makes a nice line of wines.
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