For what it's worth.
The cheapest. These parts have no impact on accuracy or reliability.
Because the best place to ask is a board filled with political minded people.
Wouldn’t want to get advice from a gun board or someone with expert opinions. Better to get anecdotal info from consumers.
This is the type of gun owner that scares me, willing to ask advice from any person with an opinion rather then an expert in the field.
It seems more to me like “Hey I want to talk about guns in public to show I am one of the cool kids!”
I love guns I love Free republic. But some friends should never be in the same room........
Centurian Arms, centurianarms.co_m
Made from billet, strong and accurate, I know this because I designed and programmed them for him. Yes, buffer tubes make a difference, the tolerance of the tube, also the air holes in the back make a huge difference in how they respond and work..
Stock is whatever you feel comfortable with, or find ascetically pleasing, the only thing that does it help you find a comfortable set.
He also makes the correct size for the AR10s as well if anyone is looking for those, which are not as common.
have u played with an H2 or H3 buffer?
Agree with wastoute. Spend your money on good upper components. Basic lower components needn’t cost much.
You do want to make sure your buffer tube and lower receiver are compatible. The Milspec is most common but there are commercial receivers as well, and the two are not compatible for tube/receiver purposes.
Get out of the mindset that there is a “best” anything with firearms. There is more or less suitable for YOU. The best stock for an 18” build for me is a Magpul MOE Rifle Stock. The best stock for someone else might be their cheap piece of garbage carbine “M4” stock from some no-name vendor for $40.
There are several more variables like gashole size, gas system length and ammo type(s) to be used that drive the considerations like buffer weight, spring weight and possibly rifle vs carbine vs VLTOR A5 receiver extension selection.
There is no “best”.
It depends on what you are going to use the rifle for.
I put a Magpul PRS on my groundhog gun. It’s heavy. I also use that rifle for target shooting, so I haven’t been inclined to replace it.
I don’t have a record where I got the extension, spring, or buffer from. Those were in a kit.
PWS makes some great buffer tubes with prices to match (CNC with integrated sling mounts and other features).
Really, you should be able to find a decent carbine or rifle length, milspec or commercial tube under fifty bucks from any of the major distributors of AR parts online (Brownells, Midway, CMMG, Aim Surplus, Larue, LMT, Rainier, etc.). Typical price is ~$20 without a spring or buffer, although the way things have changed after Hillary lost it might be around that now with a spring and buffer.
For what it's worth.
OK. More better charge on the phone. You say 18” barrel. Is that with a standard gas block location? If so, you lose dwell time...the amount of time between the bullet passing the gas port and exiting the barrel. That being the case, you want somewhat less resistance in the spring/ buffer system than for a standard 20” barrel. Weaker spring or lighter buffer, or a combination of the two. Are there 19” barrels with carbine gas block locations? If so, the opposite is true: greater dwell time....heavier spring, etc. Where your rifle ejects brass to is a decent measure of how the system is performing. See chart in post 27. Trial and error. Some people will cut 1/2 coil at a time off the rear of the spring to get ejection where it needs to be. Don’t know if that helps.
Thanks guys.
I was scouting for a tube/stock that has a good cheek weld and was not too heavy
There is a lot of advertising on the net, but I returned here for real world experience.
I’m leaning to a lighter weight magpul minimalist stock
This is a great forum
