It’s a long-winded essay piece, which basically says nothing except some marginal effort to dump on Adams. The writer needs to go back to restaurant reviews.
One of my tests of a good, factual piece of writing is that unless there is some reason to know the sex of the writer, you really can't tell. But in this piece, I could tell within the first several paragraphs. Clearly she was carrying the offended woman axe to grind.