Missed at least 3. Though it requires welding, [steel] this is the easiest one of the 3.
Posted on 08/02/2018 5:18:48 AM PDT by marktwain
Algore only invented one of them.
Missed at least 3. Though it requires welding, [steel] this is the easiest one of the 3.
A 1,1/16-inch x16 TPI thread tap is available from Brownell's gunsmithing tools, [about $60, plus shipping] and I also highly recommend one for anyone building AR lowers from Poly80. They're also very useful when repairing lowers of AR15/M16 rifles that have gone into the prone position a little too quickly. springing the lower receiver extension/ buffer tube out of line.
Note too that with laminated [*stamped*] or welded steel lowers and some casting designs, a metal nut with preexisting threads is placed in position, and welded, brazed or cast into place.
It's legal, but legal is not always easy.
Thank you archy.
Nice to see.
FReepmail me if you want to be added to or deleted from the list.
More 2nd Amendment related articles on FR's Bang List.
“Pop up at the range with one and you’ll likely get an ATF visit later and be questioned.“
I’ve never been to a single range in my entire life that’s done more than give a casual glance at the guns I’ve brought, let alone look at whether or not they have serial numbers.
L
Aaarrgh!
Friends, I need your help.
I’m having a sort of existential crisis over this post.
I know I’m happy,
but I can’t figure out why.
So... Here’s the dilemma.
What is making me smile?
a) Americans exercising their INALIENABLE rights
b) American ingenuity outfoxing politicians
c) Things that make our government a little afraid of US for a change
d) A pink AR receiver.
I have also never been to ar range where anyone inspected a firearm for serial numbers or anything else. Their only concern seems to be whether you utilize the item in a safe manner.
That being said, it is usually recommended that one put a serial number of some kind on a homemade item of this type. If for no other reason than to recover the item if it is stolen, this does not seem like a bad idea. I think that when I start producing these things myself, the serial numbers will begin with the following:
BFYTW0001
Anyone unfamiliar with the first five letters of that serial number can look up the phrase online.
FWIW, I believe that number one on the list is the best option. There are dozens of very high-quality jigs on the market, designed for use with either a decent drill press or a decent router. Following the relatively simple instructions will result in a lower that is within tolerances, and is as strong as one that you would buy from a dealer.
Item number two is very tempting, but the price tag reduces the temptation buy a great deal. You can buy the highest quality jig out there for about $300, and a good router for $125 to $150, and these are each reusable at least two dozen times. Maybe you would need to get some new bits for the router, but that is a negligible expense. Amortized over a couple dozen receivers, the cost of those items winds up being about $15 a pop, vs. about $85 a pop with the CNC machine, not including shipping.
Then put some markings on it.
It is so simple by a number and letter stamp set and mark the thing.
Joe blow manufacturing ser# 85678.
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