Posted on 11/07/2018 2:50:41 PM PST by knarf
It never occured to me the crack would violate the closed loop system.
Not a mechanic nor did I stay at a holiday inn express.
I believe if un-combusted fuel is making it to the exhaust system it can gum up the catalytic converter. Are your plugs fouled? Timing off? Mixing too rich?
Even though the battery was not disconnected, it sounds like something electrical is hitting your sensors.
You might want to try it on a fresh battery. Just to clear that from the list.
yeah...see #17.
Self vulcanizing tape is miraculous stuff.
Drive it to the nearest state that has easier insoections.
My 99 GMC suburban’s “service engine soon” light comes on whenever I remote start it. Just started doing this about three weeks ago, and my mechanic has no clue why.
Glad I got a code reader to clear it. Runs great otherwise.
Well, there ya’ go. Good luck, you should have it passed in no time.
You should still get a code similar to a loose fuel cap because the system isn’t pressuring
I'll let you know tomorrow.
I’ll chew some bubble gum tomorrow....
They make a gas tank epoxy that is pretty good.
Incomplete means computer was reset and car needs to be driven certain ways to allow the test to complete. My blazer had this problem, smog test place told me where to drive it at what speeds and come back. Next test passed no problem.
Incomplete means test not complete, not test failed.
Mine was triggered by me cleaning the battery posts and disconnecting the battery. Normally takes 500 miles average driving to retune. My deliberate programming trip was 25 miles.
Hey did you recently have your battery disconnected, like for over 5 hours..?
Did you go to Hawaii for 3 weeks, maybe..?
Put that aside:
Each of those “incompletes” can sometimes simply be DRIVEN OFF in many cases, if you drive long enough.
Problem is, that can sometimes require 200 miles or more and that sucks:
Each on can be quickly dispatched with little driving AS LONG AS you drive in a VERY particlar way.
Each car has it’s own special “drive tests” sometime also called “road tests”. The highly, highly specific, err...SPECIFICS for each can be found online free as long as you put in your car make and year exactly.
An example of one that I will make up:
“Start your car, idle for 5 min and 30 seconds. Accelerate smoothly to 30 mph, maintain 30 mph for 2 min and 10 seconds never going above 35 mph. COAST to a complete stop, permitting the motor to idle for 2 min and 5 seconds. Turn off the engine. Retart after no less than 30 seconds has elapsed”
Pretty specific, huh? And it’s different for each one. Sucks, huh? Yeah, and you have to find the right road for each, and it’s still not easy cuz a cat intervenes, or a stupid kid on a tricycle —whatever.
But lessay you do each drive cycle test and your problem STILL doesn’t clear.
I have to post this and re-read your problem, then re-post more stuff for you, hang on:
Your google search term would be:
“’96 GNC Sonoma 4WD drive tests”
It’s not going 2b easy but you WILL find them and like I said b4, each one is SUPER specific and fussy and you MUST operate within the enumerated parameters.
Okay, there is only one code in there that totally sucks sh*t and that’s the CATALYST code:
Are you in Commiefornia?
If so that one is expensive as hell. And the EVAP one? That’s SUPER hard to get rid of but whaddya know even in Commiefornia you do NOT have to have a “complete” reading on that one. Yeah, it can be NOT ready and you can still test, they won’t refuse you. The EVAP one is famous for effing people over and KKalif finally threw up their hands and gave up, at least as of 2017.
Ummm...did you know you can cheat the Catalytic Converter test? Yeah, even in Commiefornia.
Do you live near an AutoZone..? They have a part for $5, a “spark plug thread protector” and it just so happens that fits PERFECTLY on the threading of the downstream O2 sensor of something like 80% of cars, at least for Camry and many others it does:
Thusly affixed, that sucker provides a little extra stand-off between the most downstream O2 sensor and your cat. It also adds weight BALLAST to your O2 sensor which jumps up and down in temperature very quickly when your cat is shot:
With the ballast on there via this part, the temp no longer spikes up and down rapidly; it’s smoothed out, maybe like Nancy Pelosi on meds, see? Your sick Pelosi Cat will seem like a Sarah Sanders healthy cat, totally fooling the Test Only bums, and getting you out of a repair that would cost, oh...prolly north of $1,600.
No, I’m completely serious.
Kay, lemme post this and read your problem again:
The vehicle may run but not correctly.
The place I was headed to with My original question was in the Closed System if the fuel level is way up the filler neck Liquid Fuel can feed through the lines to the EVAP CANISTER and put Liquid instead of Vapors into the EVAP CANISTER and that screws up the Sensors all over the place. You will have multiple codes and usually getting the Liquid out of the EVAP CANISTER will fix the Codes after driving a while to Clear them. Make sure that You don’t overfill the Tank into the Filler Neck or You will have to rinse and repeat.
Have fun.
Kay EGR:
Go buy some Carb Spray for $5 and another spray, “Deep Creep” at AutoZone or Napa.
Take off your EGR, that’s like three 10 mm bolts. See the little tube on the side? It comes off. The UFO thing on top? That’s a VSV and if you get spray INSIDE the VSV you will kill it. You need to think about gravity and stuff:
The spray and esp the Deep Creep needs to totally clean out that EGR, which is maybe $150 if you’re a sucker and you buy it. At the junkyard it will cost you mabye $10.
Get that sucker all cleaned out with the carb spray at first, then let the METAL PIPE PARTS soak in the Deep Creep overnight —again, not letting liquids into the VSV clam/ufo thing on top.
In the morning check it out again, maybe tease it a bunch with a brass brush (if you’re a gun guy) or something like that. It’s gotta be clean as heck.
Now sometimes it’s just the VSV effing up the works. If so, you can buy juuuuust the VSV part online from Ebay for like $7, only ya gotta wait a week for delivery sometimes.
Lessay you do all that, you do the EGR drive test perfectly , and/or you replace juuuust the VSV for $7 and you finally get a “complete” reading for the EGR (which you would check with a CHEAP AS HELL OBD2 reader which any fool can buy off of Ebay these days for $15).
Hey do you know how to use an OBD2 reader? I guess many people can’t but...lemme see if you can answer this first, so I can know your skill level. It’s actually super easy, but first lemme give u a chance to respond, maybe...
Your “catalyst” not ready reading is usually cuz the battery was disconnected for a long time (over 5 hours) but in many cases also this can be cuz the catalytic converter is DEAD:
Are you getting a P code, or an Engine not ready light?
If you are getting the P code Catalyst Below Minimum Threshold (or something), then that sucks the big one and you would need THIS:
Which I mentioned earlier, but...I’m going to wait for a response first before continuing.
Yeah post 55 is correct about the Evap code:
People at the pump who hear that CLICK! when full but cannot rest until putting in that laaaaaaaaast drop of gasoline and then that other laaaaaaaaaaaaaast drop, then around the Mulberry bush another 10 times:
Yeah, they’re sorta killing their car.
So don’t do that.
Good point, I wonder if it will reset a code right away or not.
He can fix his crack and maybe the lines will hang and purge themselves but if theres too much liquid he may have to blow out vac hoses and dump fuel out of the canister.
Well, in a shop you have to go with the manual cleanout in addition to the crack repair to protect yourself from customer return rage.
People are so hard on themselves and don’t even know it.
Also, when You have to replace the O2 Sensor they have 1 wire or 3 wires. The 1 wire sends the signal to ECM/ECU. The 3 wire has 1 signal and the other 2 wires are for Heating the Sensor do it works faster and better when Vehicle is cold started. Just buy the universal one with the same number of wires.
They can Cost $2-300.00 sometimes. Ask for the Universal one and use the Wire(s) from the old one preferably soldering the wires but a crimp butt connector will work just be sure to tape the connection to keep crap out of it. Most Sensors come with Anti-Seize Compound on them, if not get some and put it on the Threads.
The Length of the wire is not critical just get close to the same length. It would take something like miles of wire to change the Sensor Signal.
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