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To: 1_Rain_Drop

He mentions “structural grade” softwood dimensional lumber. That designation is usually from stands of “southern yellow pine” or “douglas fir”. The doug fir is usually straighter with less culling needed.

One of the other treatments we should consider is fire treated lumber. But usually, lumber that has been fire treated is not also pressure treated for moisture exposure. Moisture exposure “pressure-treated” lumber is generally used anywhere that the lumber touches concrete walls or slabs as well as exposed to moist air or some rain. The bottom plate in a stud wall is always pressure treated in my book. It stops insect infestation, dry rot and mold.

Any area that gets wet during construction must dry out completely before enclosure. It cannot have been soaking in water for days and then enclosed by sheathing or drywall. If it is, mold is going to form.

Most saw dust should be avoided. Hardwood, especially oak, has a saw dust that can kill.

Often the retail yard like Lowes or Home Depot does not carry commercial grade lumber of all the types. Try a commercial lumber yard.


56 posted on 07/11/2016 9:05:03 AM PDT by KC Burke (Consider all of my posts as first drafts. (Apologies to L. Niven))
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To: KC Burke
"Most saw dust should be avoided. Hardwood, especially oak, has a saw dust that can kill."

Interesting.

I did buy the DF from a lumberyard and it sat in the house for close to two years before installation

After the DF floor was installed, the dude sanded it and then packed sawdust into the minor imperfections. (I think he skipped the part where sawdust is to be mixed with wood glue, then applied). After he left, I vacuumed that sawdust considering that when poly will be applied that sawdust will mix with the poly and create a visual nightmare.

59 posted on 07/11/2016 9:32:16 AM PDT by 1_Rain_Drop
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