I watched several vids and followed the instructions in the manual.
When it works, the burner the flame has good color and it heats up quickly. Because it wasn’t generating a code previously, it was a little difficult to troubleshoot until I found the service manual online. Essentially, the gas valve has a “safety” feature where it detects the amperage draw of the ignitor. So the ignitor can glow red hot, but if it isn’t within range, or drifts in and out, the safety valve will shut the gas off. That and the control boards are notoriously craptastic. Once I found the specs and got myself an amp clamp, I was able to identify that the ignitor was the root cause.
But now the new control board is throwing an error indicating it’s either the touchpad or the board itself. I’m pretty certain the old board was working, and I can probably put it back in, but it seems like a fool’s errand to keep chasing these problems.
Try to look for a unit that has only mechanical components, not digitalized components. I have an OLD Maytag washer and dryer that have no plastic parts, nor any digital components....they will operate with minimal maintenance until the day I die.
I would consider looking for a very old gas unit that you can convert.
Or....perhaps you can buy a cast iron Carolina Cooker burner and then trick out the cabinetry so that it look nice....you can buy 2, so that you have a 4-burner cooking surface.
For the oven, I would go with wood, which I have done in the past. Works great.
Now you have a toofer prepper solution.
In a pinch, I’d suggest powering the electric off of an uninterruptable power supply. It isn’t much wattage, with the most being the bulb in the oven, and the UPS filters the power through a regeneration step. In the boonies you may have a lot of spikes in the supply.