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Meat laws give Latino stores a jolt [MAD COW]
Tri-City Herald ^ | December 31, 2003 | Staff Writers

Posted on 12/31/2003 2:00:49 PM PST by steve86

Meat laws give Latino stores a jolt

This story was published Wednesday, December 31st, 2003

By Mary Hopkin and Jeff St. John Herald staff writers

A large sign advertising whole cow heads for $20 greeted customers at The Valley's Market in Sunnyside this week.

The market sold about 40 of the heads before Christmas, but there hasn't been much demand since the Dec. 23 announcement that the first U.S. case of mad cow disease, or bovine spongiform encephalopathy, was confirmed in a cow from a dairy less than 20 miles away.

Cow heads are a popular Hispanic holiday fare.

The skinless heads, which have the brains intact, are traditionally wrapped in burlap bags, seasoned with onions, garlic and cilantro and roasted or steamed for hours, to make the Mexican specialty barbacoa.

"It's very good," said Travis Hamm, manager of the market's meat department.

Hamm said he normally doesn't keep the heads on hand but special orders them during the holidays to supply the large Hispanic population in the region.

Rob Martin, owner of the Sunnyside store, one in Pasco and another in Cashmere, said after the case of mad cow disease was reported, he received several calls from customers questioning where his beef is purchased.

"People are definitely concerned, and we immediately pulled everything off our shelves until we could determine where it came from," he said.

But consuming them could pose a slightly higher risk, he added.

"I'm not sure how much longer these ethnic foods will be available," he said. "We'll have to watch and see."

Crowder said the potential for humans to contract variant Cruetzfeldt-Jakob disease is "incredibly low" even for those exposed by eating infected beef. He said the USDA ruling excluded cattle younger than 30 months from the "high-risk tissues" ban because they don't develop the disease.

But to those who eat beef, he warned, "I would advise caution."

And it appears people are doing just that, avoiding such traditional beef dishes, even in the Lower Valley where about 70 percent of residents are Hispanic.

The El Palenque Restaurant in Grandview is known for its barbacoa and menudo, but the popular Mexican holiday dishes weren't served much this Christmas.

"Nobody wants to eat beef because they are afraid of mad cow," said waitress Rosalinda Vargas.

A large tray of tripe is displayed behind glass at Jose Jimenez's spotless meat market counter in Sunnyside. Tripe is frequently used for menudo, a spicy soup that is boiled for hours with onions, garlic, hominy and red chilies. The USDA also has banned sale of small intestines.

Everybody is afraid, said Jimenez, owner of Carneceria Fin de Semana.

He previously was selling about $2,000 worth of beef daily. That has decreased to about $500, but he is selling more pork.

When his customers show concern, he said he tries to reassure them. Jimenez said he trusts that if something were wrong with the meat he was sold, authorities would come to his store and tell him.

But Tuesday's ban will affect only the meat going through slaughterhouses once the ruling is officially placed into the Federal Register, which could be a matter of days or several weeks. That leaves questions about those heads, brains and spinal cords already on shelves -- some in markets owned by people who speak little English.

USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service officials vowed a "very aggressive educational campaign" for retailers, processors and consumers planned in Spanish and English. Ricardo Velazquez, a spokesman for the agency based in Washington, D.C., said there are inspectors at meat packing plants daily to share the information with clients.

Velazquez also said he could not imagine a federally inspected plant selling a cow head.

But Mike Menard, manager of Ray's Meats in Yakima, said he sells quite a few, especially during the holidays. The heads are purchased through wholesale brokers, who buy them from large beef producers, like Tyson, in Pasco.

Menard said the new regulations likely would not affect shops like his or consumers being able to purchase the heads, because they are from beef cattle generally slaughtered at about 24 months old, before BSE could develop.

Jimenez, who opened his meat market last June, said he believes his customers soon will be back buying beef. He said he isn't losing a lot of money, because he buys in small quantities three times a week to make sure he has good, fresh meat in his case.

"I don't want to have to put it in the freezer," he said.

"If you don't have good-looking meat, you don't have customers."


TOPICS: Business/Economy; Culture/Society; News/Current Events; US: Washington
KEYWORDS: beef; brains; bse; cjd; cow; mad; madcow; vcjd
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The newspaper version of the story came with a photo of a frozen skinless whole cow head. You are spared that.
1 posted on 12/31/2003 2:00:52 PM PST by steve86
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To: BearWash
Just another example of Bush stomping to the rights of migrant workers by banning their culture.

/sarcasm
2 posted on 12/31/2003 2:04:00 PM PST by jtminton (2Timothy 4:2)
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To: farmfriend
BSE cultural food practices and new regulation ping.

A second photo is captioned: "The menu at Tacos Axteca taco stand in Kennewick displays sesos, or beef brains, although owner Tony Patino said he hasn't carried the product for more than a year because of low demand.

3 posted on 12/31/2003 2:04:26 PM PST by steve86
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To: BearWash
Actually, it's a great centerpiece for a holiday meal. I've shared it about six times with hispanic families when I was a kid. Lots of tasty bits on a head.

Our own traditions, at least on the British side, include the serving of a boar's head at Christmas. It was the essential item at a Christmas meal.

While stationed in Turkey, I also sampled a sheep's head with some folks near the base.

Lots of interesting things to eat on this big planet.
4 posted on 12/31/2003 2:05:43 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: BearWash
The supermarket I frequent is run by Greeks.

A Greek holiday tradition, apparently, is skinned head of baby lamb.

It creeps me out to visit the meat counter where all these grinning, lipless baby lamb heads are staring at me. Made one of my sons cry when he was two.

5 posted on 12/31/2003 2:07:16 PM PST by billorites (freepo ergo sum)
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To: BearWash
So many good cuts of beef out there, why would anyone want to eat the brains and guts and all the crap that even predators avoid after a kill.
6 posted on 12/31/2003 2:12:08 PM PST by X-FID
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To: BearWash; AAABEST; Ace2U; Alamo-Girl; Alas; alfons; amom; AndreaZingg; Anonymous2; ...
Rights, farms, environment ping.

Let me know if you wish to be added or removed from this list.
I don't get offended if you want to be removed.

7 posted on 12/31/2003 2:14:11 PM PST by farmfriend ( Isaiah 55:10,11)
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To: X-FID
"So many good cuts of beef out there, why would anyone want to eat the brains and guts and all the crap that even predators avoid after a kill.
"

Don't see many predators, do you? They invariably start with the guts of their kills. You should see my cat with a rabbit.

We're a squeamish sort of animal, it seems. But almost every part of the animal is eaten by most of the world's population. It's only in wealthy countries where we can eat just the best cuts of meat.

If you lived on a farm half a century ago, you'd understand that all the parts of the animals we eat are useful.
8 posted on 12/31/2003 2:21:05 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: billorites
"A Greek holiday tradition, apparently, is skinned head of baby lamb."

And a yummy tradition it is. Why are we so darned squeamish? I've eaten some pretty strange things in my lifetime, from guinea pig and sea cucumber to codfish tongues and horsemeat. They're all different, but all are part of some culture's cuisine.

I never pass up a chance to eat a food I haven't eaten but that is a delicacy from another culture.
9 posted on 12/31/2003 2:24:16 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: X-FID
My "Joy of Cooking" has a recipe for calf's brains. I don't know if it's in the newer editions. I know my paternal grandparents liked them.

I've never eaten cow's head, but I've eaten menudo. It's a traditional meal on New Year's Day--and also said to be good for a hangover.

10 posted on 12/31/2003 2:25:48 PM PST by Catspaw
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To: BearWash
The newspaper version of the story came with a photo of a frozen skinless whole cow head.

Do they leave the eyes in the head or cook them seperately?

11 posted on 12/31/2003 2:29:30 PM PST by templar
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To: templar
"Do they leave the eyes in the head or cook them seperately?"

They leave 'em in. They turn white and are a subject of much argument over who gets them. In my family, everyone argues about who gets the turkey heart.
12 posted on 12/31/2003 2:32:56 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: MineralMan
my grandfather loved scrambled eggs and brains. (not for me)
13 posted on 12/31/2003 2:34:24 PM PST by camas
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To: templar
They leave the eyes in. My husband tells a good story about when his family went to visit relatives in Mexico. It was culture shock for him, but his sister fit right in and plucked the eyeballs out and ate them.
14 posted on 12/31/2003 2:35:01 PM PST by gracie1 (Where are we going and why are we in this handbasket?)
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To: BearWash
Jimenez said he trusts that if something were wrong with the meat he was sold, authorities would come to his store and tell him.

There was a story about a giraffe that had died in some East Coast zoo. The zoo officials refused to release the giraffe's medical information, citing concerns for the giraffe's privacy rights.

Mr. Jimenez, you may be alone in that honest, sensible world of yours! :-)
15 posted on 12/31/2003 2:35:55 PM PST by Triple Word Score
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To: camas
"my grandfather loved scrambled eggs and brains. (not for me)"

I have to admit that I haven't eaten brains. I passed up on that part when I joined in a family dinner of a cow's head. The rest was really good, though.
16 posted on 12/31/2003 2:38:02 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: MineralMan
"I've eaten some pretty strange things in my lifetime..."

And you only mention the things you knew you were eating! ;-)

Seriously, you're making me hungry. I'd add raw clams and oysters to your list, sea urchin ovaries, boudin, pickled tripe...

But those sheep heads are creepy.

I think it's cause the eyes never blink and they ain't got no lips.

Reminds me of the horsehead scene in the Godfather.

17 posted on 12/31/2003 2:40:33 PM PST by billorites (freepo ergo sum)
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To: BearWash
Cow heads are a popular Hispanic holiday fare.

Maybe cow heads are a popular Mexican holiday fare.

Cubans have a roast pig.


18 posted on 12/31/2003 2:40:57 PM PST by Polybius
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To: gracie1
Cool! My favorite wierd food story happened at an Italian restaurant. My wife and I went with another couple. We ordered mussels as an appetizer. The wife of the other couple was eating hers when she discovered a tiny little green crab inside the mussel. Eek! She showed it to everyone and looked pretty green herself. I looked at it for a second, then popped the whole thing in my mouth and ate it. After the shock was over, she understood that it was just a little boiled crab...no biggie.
19 posted on 12/31/2003 2:40:59 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: billorites
"And you only mention the things you knew you were eating! ;-)

Seriously, you're making me hungry. I'd add raw clams and oysters to your list, sea urchin ovaries, boudin, pickled tripe...
"

All yummy stuff. We could go on for days, naming unusual foods that most folks shy away from.
20 posted on 12/31/2003 2:42:51 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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