“VPN”
You still need a service provider to connect to such a network. Whether it’s your phone or cable company, you need either that incoming wire or wireless router.
The folks who provide that will be doing the snooping.
When you connect to a VPN, you use encrypted tunneling. Your ISP will see packets of gibberish passing back and forth between your computer and the VPN server, but they have no way of telling what is in these packets or where they ultimately come from.