Yes, they do decorate for Christmas including the airport. It is “secular” in that there is no nativity scenes. The music does sometimes get through as I’ve heard “O Holy Night” in the mall” :) St Joseph’s parish has around 20 masses for Xmas. 10 are outside due to the number of people, around 3,000. I’ve attended and it is a wonderful experience.
In 1998, during a port call to Jebel Ali, we attended a Sunday mass at St. Mary in Dubai. It was packed. And, the expats were very nice that they invited us over for dinner.
You mean sort of like American cities where if someone were to put up a nativity display, the ACLU and like minded groups would be on them like white on rice. Somehow, I think the UAE is more tolerant that that.