Jeep Grand Cherokee Owners (Problem with mine)--VANITY--

FR ^ | 10/24/2015 | Yours Truly

[Ghost of SVR4]

Thanks.. So far my Cherokee has not left the mechanics lot so the tranny may not be heating up to ID this problem.

[animal172]

The truck acted perfectly normal except when the key was turned nothing happened. Saw online it was most likely the ignition control module and it turned out to be the problem.

[Kirkwood]

Go to a mechanic with a dealer-level diagnostic computer. A shade-tree mechanic can’t diagose it with a $200 code reader, and you are just guessing and wasting money if you can’t replicate the fault. You need the kind of service computer that has model and engine-specific diagnostic software. The fault code is stored in your vehicle’s computer memory and the diagnosis and repair will be very straightforward. If you don’t know an independent mechanic who has a dealer-level computer, go to the dealer.

[Kirkwood]

You need access to a mechanic with this or something similar: http://www.ottotest.com/ottotest/demo/

[HippyLoggerBiker]

Wish you the best

[butlerweave]

My brother has one and it’s been in the shop for almost 2 months now for a Recall ,I think it’s ignition ,it’s been so long I’ve forgotten

[Ghost of SVR4]

I just called the dealership, no ope recalls on my veheicle, but they did say there might be a software update to the WIN module that addresses a “no start” state. At least it is something to begin checking (software versions).

[Ghost of SVR4]

Just spoke with the local dealer. We are going to get the vehicle over to them to check some of the software versions currently applied. There is an update “out there” that addresses a no start state with the WIN module.

thanks for the info...

[butlerweave]

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Jeep/Grand_Cherokee/2010/

[Ghost of SVR4]

Two months? ugh...I wish him the best..

[Rodamala]

Load test the starting battery.

[Hot Tabasco]

I have a friend with an older truck who is having a similar problem but worse.

It's a weird situation for him but it involves the security system. It started out requiring him to wait approx. 20 minutes after the first non-start to allow the security system to reset. Now it's up to several hours.......

[Svartalfiar]

Ok, I've actually had a similar issue on my car as well, '95 Mustang. For the past two years, about once a month, she just wouldn't start. Lights come on fine, everything's fine, but no crank/turn/click/nothing when trying to start the engine.

Jump start didn't help.

After a while I figured out disconnecting/reconnecting battery terminals helped, sometimes just whacking them with my C-wrench, then I was good to go for another month. Wiggling the cables coming off the battery. Problem always happened heading somewhere (work, home from work, etc) so I never had time to really troubleshoot it, just needed to get her started an go. And when she was working (on my days off), there's no way to figure out the cause of the problem!

Finally had a couple days where it happened, had some free time, and wiggling/reconnecting the cables for half an hour didn't work. 'Good', I could finally track down the actual problem. Bought some jack stands (car's so low I can't get under without jacks), and started tracing cables and testing.

What finally fixed it that time (and I've had no further problems for 2 months, so hopefully it was the real cause), was cleaning off/reconnecting the CABLES AT THE STARTER.

Mine is 20 years old, so cables do build up corrosion and stuff, I wouldn't think a 5 year old car would have the same issue. BUT, starter issues shouldn't cause the issue you're having (happens randomly, no issues most of the time). I would suggest going with the simple, cheap fixes first:
Make sure your cables are clean, connected tightly. A loose ground can prevent the starter from pulling enough amps (electronics is weird, I don't understand it!), of if the ignition wire is loose, you won't always have a working connection. Check both battery terminals, where the negative is connected to your Jeep's frame, then find your starter on the underside and make sure all those connections are good. Also, there's a mess of cables under your dash, if you don't know which ones are ignition, just make sure they're all plugged in tight.

If checking the cables doesn't fix it, you can take your starter into AutoZone to get it tested, or it could be an ignition switch issue, inside your steering column. Here's a couple good links I found while troubleshooting mine, the second one is a good step-by-step process that should help you narrow down to the issue, or at least eliminate several of the possible causes.

The Peritrochoid - Before Replacing Your Starter Motor
How to Test the Starter Motor On the Car (Step by Step)

[PDGearhead]

When it was placed on the tow truck, I assume the transmission was put into Neutral (from Park) in order to move it.

It could well be that the neutral safety switch is slightly
out of adjustment and when it was shifted in and out of park it was just close enough to work again.

As another person suggested, if it happens again, try starting it in neutral(on level ground and with your foot on the brake).

Since there was no click originally, I doubt it is the starter since the solenoid would make a click even if the starter is bad.

[LibertyOh]

I have an older Jeep Grand Cherokee (1996) that had an intermittent problem - not starting sometimes, worst was when it would simply die while driving (sometimes to restart, sometimes not). Mechanic was never able to find problem and replicate it,internet search found the PCM was a likely cause and I got a replacement one - did the trick for about a year and then symptoms reappeared, replaced PCM under its warranty and been good for a couple of years now. see http://www.solopcms.com/

[Covenantor]

Sister’s Jeep had same problem.

Just dead stop at stop sign. Started after 15-20 minutes. No solenoid clicking, no cranking.

Happened again in dealer’s driveway.

Was the TDC sensor. Wasn’t as bad as HLB apparently, as it was caught before other damage was done. Repair cost was nominal <<$200 in these parts.

[rabidralph]

What about the fuel pump? My truck was driving fine one day, with similar multiple stops. I got home put it in the garage. The next morning, it wouldn’t start. No whirring like with a battery. Nothing. My mechanic towed it and said it was the fuel pump. He replaced it and the truck was fine. I hope you get it figured out.

[tcrlaf]

Had a similar problem with a Sebring Convertible a couple of years older.

Replaced the battery, replaced the shift interlock, has the security system redone, and it still kept doing it intermittently, at the most inconvenient times.

Turns out it was a loose pin in the Immobilzer switch.

After $2000 in repair and tow bills, the solution was a $2 soldering of the wire to the pin, in the connector.

[jocon307]

That’s not good. I wish you luck, cars are great until they won’t start, then they are a big old pain in the neck.

[tcrlaf]

“I have a 2012 Ram. Had the exact same problem once. There is a anti-theft plug/device of some sort to the right of my parking break lever. I knocked it loose once while getting out without realizing it.”

That is exactly the problem I just posted about.
The Immobilizer.

Wife is short, and with the seat all the way forward, she would occasionally hit it with her knee getting in or out.

The REALLY frustrating part is that today’s mechanics only know how to respond to codes, not actually look for problems.