Posted on 02/24/2011 8:51:52 AM PST by BCW
Many of you may like to look over my Preparedness Manual which you can download at:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zx5772aa15x6xga
Probably a dumb question, but is there a way to process chlorinated swimming pool water to render it potable?
Even, in the winter months when we’ve got the water level lower and the pool covered, we’ve got over 40,000 gallons within steps of our back door.
Thanks.
Coming soon to a community near you!
COSTCO (Emergency Food Supply ----Check!
MEDICAL M17 BAG: ----Check!
ANTI-BIOTIC:----Check!
WATER: ----Check!
BLOOD STOPPERS:----Check!
BODY ARMOR PLATES: Negative.
AMMO: ----Check!
Bring on the Zombies!!
Have any recommended websites?
There’s any number of good filters that can do it for you. There’s a good list of filters in my Preparedness Manual. Link above in post #21.
Wanna go to jail?
I have made many preparations - ad i U R G E all freepers to get books by Cody Lundin on this.
?helpful websites?ping
I’ve got your manual, but I guess I missed the part about converting chlorinated water.
Thanks.
AND, thanks for the excellent manual.
View your pool as “backup” water. Keep it treated; you never know when this water will be needed! Maintenance of the free chlorine residual will prevent establishment of any microorganisms. Maintenance levels should be kept to 3-5ppm free chlorine. To monitor this, you’ll need a supply of chlorine testers. The problem with using swimming pools is that organics can enter through dirt, sweat, body oils and the inevitable kiddie tinkle. This can form chloramines which are not good to drink. Of course in a survival situation it’s OK, but steps can be taken to minimize this.
Partial and complete water changes should be done when possible. Although impossible to make a general rule, change pool water at least 1-2 times a year and make partial changes after heavy use. In a sealed drum, water can stay good for years, but we still recommend changing it at least once a year. Now imagine going in and out of your drinking water a hundred times and then drinking it. Don’t let clarity fool you, some crystal clear mountain springs have tested out to be laced with cholera.
Keep dry chlorine on hand as it has a much longer shelf life than liquid. Additionally, when the need arises to convert a pool to potable water, it’s obviously too late to completely change the water. However, the residual chlorine should be elevated over 5ppm up to ten parts, then allowed to naturally dissipate. This should take a couple of days and ensure that any of the more tenacious bacteria is destroyed. If other stored water stocks are not available, remove the necessary pool water and boil it or just treat with chlorine to the normal 5ppm. It is best to err on the side of caution.
When adding solid chlorine, dissolve the granules in a bucket first, then add to the pool water; much better mixing will result. Without power, a clean paddle or oar should be designated as a mixer. Thirty minutes minimum contact time is needed before use, more if temperatures are cold or if mixing is poor.
For smaller amounts of water, if you still have power, boiling is a reliable treatment. However, boiling water is not an efficient use of fuel if it’s scarce. Bear in mind, while boiling pool water is fine, boiling alone will not prevent re-infection from airborne contamination. Once water is boiled, a lower chlorine residual of 3ppm free is OK.
Make sure to store an adequate supply of pH balancers and available chlorine testers if you intend on drinking pool water. Chlorine loses effectiveness above 7.5pH; that’s why pH control is important. Bromine chemistry will do the job in the higher pH ranges, but it’s not approved for potable water. Use bromine disinfection for washing dishes, laundry, clothes and people.
You might consider a filtration system that removes the chlorine taste. Activated carbon in any form will remove chlorine, but remember, once you remove the free chlorine, your water does not have any protection. It should be consumed immediately following chlorine removal.
In a pinch, highly chlorinated water can be trickled through the ashes from a fire that are suspended in a cloth or coffee filter or even a cut-off pants leg tied at the bottom, that will prevent ash from passing through while allowing the water to pass.
Covering the pool at all times when not in use is a very good idea; try to keep the cover clean and wash the area you put it on when removing it from the pool.
Gangrene = Treatment is usually surgical debridement, with amputation necessary in many cases. Antibiotics alone are not effective because they do not penetrate infected muscles sufficiently.
I get what you are saying, better than nothing but Fish-Mox is for aquarium use.
bfl
bfl
Vet grade is the EXACT same thing as pharmaceutical grade. The pills even have the same numbers and are many times made in the same factory.
I wouldn’t hesitate to use them.
b
Whew, One Second After. I have been of a food storage/survivalist mentality for a few years now and have made modest efforts to that end, but that was a very sobering read. Wait, let me rephrase that - it scared the crap out of me. Showed me how little prep I had actually done, which was of course a good thing.
But the one aspect that really made my blood run cold was the sheer randomness of the EMP itself - fifty miles from home is suddenly like being stuck on the moon. The idea of being separated from immediate family kept me up at night. And unfortunately, there’s no prep for that; in fact, if you can’t get home, all your storage is pretty much rendered useless to you.
“You can go online to the Canadian pharmacies and order regular antibiotics and pain killers without a prescription.”
“Have any recommended websites?”
www.prioritymedicines.com
Excellent.
Thanks!
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