If you plan to replace the stock, how about fabricate something like the AK scope mount that mounts along the side versus being attached directly on the barrel.
Posted on 05/02/2012 8:44:25 AM PDT by dynachrome
My rifle is a round receiver Tula, 91/30. I was lucky enough to get one with an excellent bore, bolt, and all the accessories (oiler, tools in cloth wrap, sling, bayonet and two ammo pouches), while paying only $90 in-person. $80 online is still a perfectly fair price, even after transfer and shipping -- though I would advise anyone purchasing multiple specimens, or other qualifying weapons, to consider a Curio and Relic license, if that is in your interest.
The rifle's main detriment that I've determined thus far? The sights. They're not bad -- though I'm biased, and apparently an abnormality when it comes to American shooters raised with traditional American guns, for the most part. However, the majority of my open-sight shooting since adulthood has been with an AK variant, which has very similar sights, anyway. That doesn't change what they are, though; crude, dark, and on some guns, not even adjustable to make your point-of-aim the same as point-of-impact. A $5 part fixes this, and I suspect that the better quality sample you acquire, the less likely the phenomenon is. If you're new to Russian sights, try to remember that it's something you get used to. There's nothing directly 'wrong' with them; they're not always as precise, and they're just different.
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You are over-paying for a lot of man-hours. Other than sweat and some fabrication, I think they probably have about $500 worth of stuff there depending on the scope. I have no plans to bolt on all the crap. What’s the point of a flashlight and two lasers?
Still, I love the all black with a few polished pieces.
I just am wanting to have some fun with it.
If you plan to replace the stock, how about fabricate something like the AK scope mount that mounts along the side versus being attached directly on the barrel.
“depending on the scope”
truth. Barska can be low end, IIRC.
You are right. I just decided to look at the details of the list. That scope you can get for $30-$50 on ebay.
$500 may have been a stretch estimate. Some of the ATI stuff, while decent, is dirt cheap. That may be $300 worth of parts, including the gun.
7.62x54r Mosin Nagant 91/30 (Purchased in Excellent Condition w/desirable “symmetrical” receiver)
ATI Monte-Carlo Stock
ATI Scope-Mount with Bolt Handle (Welded-On)
ATI Universal Featherweight Bipod
Custom-Fabricated Muzzle-Brake (Welded-On)
Full, Mirror Polished Bolt Assembly
Custom “Shaved” Iron-Sights (w/Weld-Filled Pin-Holes)
AMT GEN-1 Night Vision Unit.
Barska 50X Scope w/AMT Night-Vision Attachment
Custom-Fabricated Bolt-Pull-Ring
Custom-Fabricated Double-Extended Bolt Handle for Easy Operation Without Bumping Scope
Welded-On Side-Mount Picatinny Rail
Bed-Liner Coating on Barrel
1000mw Hi-Intensity Green Laser Sight
Red Laser Sight with IR-filter for use w/Night-Vision
Sure-Fire LED Flashlight
Custom-Fitted Rifle Sling
Winchester Buttstock Cartridge/Tool Carrier
I think that for $500 bucks, you can make yourself a heck of a sporter with a Mosin.
LOL. So far I’m up to $60 for the new stock and $30 for the bipod.
I think I’m really going to have to stretch to hit $500. I’ve priced a good rail set that goes on the rear sight at about $50. A good LER scope will run about $100. I don’t have to change the bolt if I stick with that configuration. I may have the barrel polished versus going with bed-liner paint like that listing had.
Spend the $$ on the scope and mount. That is where “you get what you pay for”. I looked at putting a scope and mount on a non collectible Mauser I had, but it was much more than the rifle was worth. Especially if I put a repro WW2 scope and mount on it. Originals were way out of my price range.
The scout scope mount has a dog set screw which is tightened into the recess and no way will the mount move under recoil. As here: 
Many air gun scope mounts have this dog set screw, for air gun recoil is hell for trying to move the mount back instead of forward as on firearms. But the principle remains the same. This is the 30 dollar aperture sight: 
Good tips guys. Thanks for the ideas.
You actually brag about buying a class three device at a gun show (paying $20.00) and are surprised that the thing blew up in your face . Please tell me you had all the paper work . So all your fellow Freepers won’t have to write you in Federal Prison.
I meant muzzle brake. My brake broke.
“So, would a Mosin be a good rifle for a rifle “newbie”? Or would the Springfield, Mauser, Enfield or perhaps an M1 be a better choice?”
For a low price, $90-$140, and lots of available cheap surplus ammo, you really can’t go wrong with a Mosin Nagant or a a Mauser. Get one of each. Still plenty of 24/47 Yugo Mausers around. If you want to spend more, get an M1 Garand from the CMP. I love my Enfields, but I hardly ever shoot them because of ammo costs.
The heavier barrel, the sights and sight guards, the feeding assembly in the magazine [with pressed *dimples* to better guide the rimmed cartridges and prevent rim hangups during feeding] and the sling swivels, suitable with a wider sling that spreads the weight of the rifle over a wider area of the shoulder preventing fatigue during long marches- or skiing- with a slung rifle.
Try a long-eye relief pistol scope on a *scout mount* tThat also eliminates charger magazine interference by the scope.
On the other hand they can be handloaded with the circa 124-grain bullet of the 7.62x39mm M43 AK47 cartridge, and a very light recoilling combination results. And .308-.311 bullets in the 90-110 grain range can also be used, with VERY quiet results.
I've also used the AK-bullet loads in .303 British for introducing young shooters to the #5 British *Jungle Carbine,* with very happy results. And then they get to see what a #4 MarkI T sniper rifle can do with a full-power Mark VII ball round to a concrete block at a quarter-mile....
Yeah, after I posted that I did some research. It seems that the 1939 version got all the improvements that were made to the rifle over the years.
Sort of.Most of the m/28-30 versions were derived from target rifles, and had .308 diameter bores. That allowed them to utilize the Swiss boattail/Spitzer bullets developed for the 7.5 Swiss M1911 rifles and used around 1927-'28 in American match loadings for the .30-06 Springfield. The M39s had a bore of closer to .310-.312 [I've slugged the bores of the 5 M39s I've had, and they vary] and had deeper chambers cut to allow the use of both Finnish Finnish D-166 200-grain ammunition and captured Russian ammunition with .311-.312 diameter bullets; accordingly their chambers were marked with a *D* stamping- as were many former Civil Guard M28 and M28-30 rifles. Whether that's an *improvement* or not is debatable; obviously it was of certain military advantage at the time, but boy oh boy, does my M28-30 like the 168-grain Sierra match King bullets....
BTW: The *D* stamp is sometimes located on the rear sight base...
Double that, and you can get a world-class target rifle.
Double that, and you can get a world-class target rifle.
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