Posted on 04/15/2016 5:16:21 PM PDT by greeneyes
That’s a stumper for me. I’d say the ones sprouting have to be planted. I am wondering if you could store the others in the refrigerator to slow them down until fall?
Have no idea for sure.
With an underground greenhouse, you still get the light of the sun from the South, but because most of the wall area is underground the plants never freeze or get too hot. Like a cave, it can be kept at a constant 70-80 degrees. It would have hydraulic panels that open on top when the temp gets too hot. It would have a berm on the back (North) side of it, which also helps keep the temp constant, and would have tubes that run under the ground, with one end opening outside on the North end and the other opening in the floor or bottom of a wall on the inside. When the panel opens on the roof, it will cause a draw from the pipe and bring in the ground-cooled air.
There are all kinds on the internet. They are called sink greenhouses, walipinis, etc. A century-old house down the highway from me has one in it’s front yard.
I just really like the idea of growing things year-round and hopefully I will be retiring in a few years & can enjoy it when gardening gets to be too much work.
We’re retired in the Missouri Ozarks and have done well with our gardens.
The weather has been beautiful here in Central Missouri for the past few days. We badly need a nice rain shower. The weather guessers on the radio this morning said we’re ~5” below normal rainfall for the year so far.
Most of my morel hunting spots have been super crunchy and non-productive for the last two weeks. Hopefully we’ll get some moisture next week out of the system that’s heading this way from the Rockies. On the bright side, I checked a spot after work today that gets a lot of seepage due to being low on a hillside, and found half a dozen nice fat, very fresh greys that popped up since I last checked it on Wednesday. I’ll look again there on Sunday evening.
I got lucky last week and found a great deal on a very slightly used 5’ roto-tiller for Nanner. Same brand, $450 less money and a foot wider than the one I was planning to buy at the local John Deere store, and it’s only a ten minute drive from my house to get it. I’m going to pick it up early tomorrow afternoon. I’ll put it to work in the tomato patch and the back field food plot as soon as I get home with it.
My asparagus patch has exploded in the last few days. I’ll get the first cutting out of that tomorrow. The green salad in the cold frame has also gone nuts with all of the sunshine. Supper here tomorrow is going to be good.
Got 500 indeterminate tomatoes caged and 350 determinates strung the last three days, have 400 more early tomatoes to plant. Everything looks great, potatoes are starting to crack the ground, 700 squash plants are beginning to bloom and the cabbage is starting to head. The Decatur/Morgan Farmers Market opens next weekend, I should be ready. I have been busy hope to post some pics next week.
You got to really watch those okra plants they are like trees! They can become like trees and hard to remove at the end of season.
Build oriented to your strongest and best light of the off-season (generally oriented to Southern/S Eastern exposure)
assuming your predominant winds come from the West.
From the dirt that you dig out, build a berm rise to protect from the prevailing winds (so the wind flows over the structure, not AT it .
Build a small 'step-wall' opposite your black thermal mass wall to maximize your natural sunlight exposure, and thus add to the overall thermal mass. Know what your ground frost depth is (if any), and dig below it by 2 or 3 times the ground frost depth.
Line the back wall against the berm (generally the South wall) with either dark stone, dark concrete, or dark water barrels to increase solar mass & heat retention.
You don't use the water in the barrels; their purpose is strictly thermal mass and heat retention, unless despirite .
Provide floor drainage , preferably 'to light', gravity fed (uses no electric)
Include electrical service for lights, circulation fans , irrigation system , seedling germination .
Don't use glass unless you have a ready supplier - and are willing to spend a small fortune to sustain, .. and it is 'feakin' heavy (ie: stronger structure needed)
Don't use wood unless it is treated to resist decay, and continuous moist conditions ; metal channels are better and longer lasting
Preferably use plastic that is UV resistant (ie: Poly carbonate , 6 mil polyethelene , etc.). If its NOT UV resistant , you will replace it regularly..$$$
Build planting tables at a comfortable height for you, and make them 'reachable' without back strain.
Table size depends on your height, ability to reach, mobility now , as well as in the future.
Allow space for soil /compost/ soil amendments/ pots close the to the planting tables for convenience sake.
Make tables deep enough for root growth , and able enough so that the table won't dry out. Provide for a means of natural, non-energy, circulation and ventilation (especially for summer ), as well as to vent out excess moisture.
include provision for 'shade clothe' for unusual sunny days.
All that being said , consider buying a used greenhouse from someone going 'out of business' , and modify as to your needs , including supplies .
If I recall, there was an older couple (70's) in New England by the name of Scott (Ruth ?) that built what you are looking for.
Thank you TIK.
If we do build an underground greenhouse, I will post pictures for the forum. I appreciate your info!
Plant crops that she likes
I could never get my kids to help in the garden
until they discovered snow peas , and sugar snap peas
They would go up to the garden right after school for a garden snack, and then reluctantly help out.
They still rememeber it to this day, and learned about vegetables and garden work .
In Northern climes undeground greenhouse serves as a heat 'mass' to retain heat, especially in the off season.
In Southern climes , the soil mass will help cool the greenhouse , and ameliorate the varying temps by acting like a heat 'sink'.
By being underground , it is also less susceptible to wind damage , or excessive plant table drying, and helps to retain moisture in generally dry areas.
Honestly I am unsure if they will keep for 4-5 months since you have already soaked them all.
I would cull those that haven't yet sprouted from the rest , and refrigerate them , especially if you have a spare fridge, or cool place in the garage.
Regardless, they will still need ventilation and air exposure , or else they will rot. Cold will stunt the growth of the non-sprouted.
I've not tried to keep onions for that long , as most of mine are used within a couple months
Another option is to barter with a neighbor who has a garden, or a crop of which you have a shortage , and can trade with each other .
I would put non-sprouts in the sun for a few days to dry them out before putting them in the fridge.
You're killing me !
Last night was 27 degrees , but nothing white that I have to shovel .. YET !
Calling for temps in the 50's, and 60's tomorrow and for three days, and having a problem with spring fever.
GOD Bless !
Sounds great.
She only likes meat.
www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-make-vegetable-dye-140050
Natural dyes and mordants (set colors) with instructions
raspberries -red
Fresh birch leaves = Yellow
Elderberries = Lilac to violet
Walnut husks and shells = Dark brown
Pine cones = Reddish-yellow
Mulberries = Deep purple -ask my white truck about the color !
Best overall source on historical natural dyes (and mordants =set color) :
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_dye
Then get some mushroom spawn , shade , moisture .
Eggplant makes a good Italian substitute for meat.
Or introduce her to sweet herbs that grow and enhance the flavor of meat : basil, marjoram, mint, rosemary, bay leaf , sage and thyme .
Cook meatballs with NO herbs - just blah ! .
Then cook a meatball with one of the above sweet herbs
Then cook another meatball with another one of the sweet herbs .
Then she can tell you what she liked best- and tell her what herb was in there.
It will at least peak her interest ( I hope )
I hope that yo have a Farmers Market in the area
or else Mrs. Tider is going to have a hernia canning all those determinate tomatoes ! LOL !
No, I only soaked the bag I planted. I planned on staggering the planting by a couple of weeks, to facilitate harvest, so didn’t soak the remaining bag.
However, there is a spare “beer fridge” downstairs I can use to keep the non-sprouters. Thanks
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