Posted on 06/12/2022 6:58:46 AM PDT by Scarlett156
(video)
In 2020 I became immersed in the marvelous world of quadrupedal robots. Viewing YouTube videos of robots such as SPOT by Boston Dynamics, and the MIT Mini Cheetah has inspired me to make my very own. These cleverly crafted bots are known for their dynamic movements and realistic appearances. Over the past year, I've made it my personal goal to create my very own affordable quadrupedal robot. One that could function similar to the high-end quadrupeds. Here I present ARES, a fully 3D printed 12 DOF robot dog capable of omni directional travel as well as many other maneuvers. In this instructable, I'll show you how to make your very own ARES!
Here is a list of the tools and supplies needed for the build. For a more detailed overview of the supplies needed, download the bill of material excel file here.
Tools needle nose plier wire stripper lighter or heat gun (for heat shrink tubing) Allen wrenches soldering iron and solder super glue exacto knife wire cutter hot glue gun and hot glue
(Excerpt) Read more at instructables.com ...
Bookmarked for future reference.
Might have to have a go at this one.
I would likely set fire to the house just trying to get the materials together. But it does look like fun, doesn’t it?
meh. Ping me when they can print a velociraptor with cheetah like speed, jaws of an alligator with pit bull mentality. Then I will be interested.
Do you do 3D printing? If so, what slicer and firmware do you typically run?
A 3d printer is on the want list.
I’m not printing currently.
I’ve used Kubotek Key Creator for the CAD, and either Ultimaker Cura or MatterControl for driving my old Robo 3D printer.
The projects I was working on have long since run their course, and I’m in the process of donating my printer to a university student who wants to make prosthetics.
Our local MakerSpace has three printers, so I have access for the next time I have a need.
Silc3r and Duet 2 Ethernet controller.
https://slic3r.org/
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-ethernet
We have owned a 3D Printer since 2016. The printer is from a design that was originally open source. Mine is called a “Monoprice-113860 Maker Select 3D” V2. It was marketed under a number of names. The slicer software is based on Cura. I forget which firmware version that I am on.
I have done a lot of mods to the printer over the years including modifications and additions to the motherboard in the controller. The original was prone to overheating and quit working, but was both reparable and there were worthwhile mods that made it much more dependable. There has been a lot of support for this printer in the forums so I didn't have to reinvent the wheel to get it going again. It has worked very well. Unlike a standard printer for paper this little guy is easy to repair and modify with generic parts that are cheap and available.
I have also put together much larger 3D printers for friends. But I have not found the need to replace my original printer especially after making quite a few mods to it.
My favorite design software is called Autodesk 123D Design. It is no longer available through the manufacturer. They were giving it away on Amazon for years after they stopped supporting it. You can still find it on archive.org. It is simple to use but can be very precise. I also like Autodesk's full feature Fusion 360 software. If you register as a hobbyist or student I believe you can still get it for free as well. But it is more than I need for most projects and more complicated to use.
I have designed many original projects like the venturi adapter that I made to use Natural Gas with our backup generator. I also like to download and print things that I find on Thingiverse.com. etc... I often end up modifying the designs that I find to better suit my needs.
Well if you like Slic3r you should check the fork from it called SuperSlicer. Lot’s of very cool features.
https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/releases
Duet’s are good but I don’t like paying their HW prices so run other boards with Kipper, a Pi 4, and a front-end like Fluidd.
All my printers are custom built so having open source for everything is very important to me.
I would add that successful 3D printing if you are not using a paint by numbers setup from a major manufacturer can take quite a bit of patience to get everything dialed in. Just changing your filament of the same type to a different brand can require a lot of changes in settings to get things working right. And when you make a major change like going from PLA filament to ABS to nylon or god forbid, flexible TPU... there is a good chance that hardware modifications will be necessary. That is why it is best to buy a printer that lots of others are using so you can find out what has worked for others by going on the forums.
I had 2 Robo R1+ printers for years. My son (18 now) sells VR sports training subscriptions and prints 3d parts to attach the VR controller to a lacrosse stick.
I thought I loved those printers. One died this spring, and I bought an Anycubic photon mono x resin printer.
I have to say, it puts filament printers to shame. The level of detail is amazing. If laid out properly the speed is amazing.
The only downside is the resin needs to be treated like a hazardous substance. If you get it on your hands, no matter how many times you wash, you can smell and taste it. I go through so many nitrile gloves now.
But, I could never go back to filament. I haven’t turned on my remaining robo printer since I got this new one running.
It sounds like you are more adventurous in this than I have been. And my wife has managed to keep my completely natural hoarding instincts under control in this area. Basically, if I want a different 3D printer I will have to get rid of the one that I have got already. I put together a jumbo sized Creality type printer for a friend with a 300mm x 300mm x 400mm print area. I added the self leveling feature and had all sorts of difficulties getting the right firmware installed on the motherboard and rewiring to support that. We had it at our house for a couple of months while I ran it through it's paces. And I was kind of pining for one myself, but my wife was not enthusiastic about the idea.
Even though our bedroom is two stories above the room where the printer is kept she still whines about it when I have a long project printing through the night.
I have been pining for a resin printer, but we have so many other projects right now that it probably is not going to happen anytime soon. My wife has enough objections to my printing in the house with filament because of odors and noise at night especially.
That sounds like a CR10-S. A "jumbo" would be something like their CR10-S5, 500mm.
Even though our bedroom is two stories above the room where the printer is kept she still whines about it when I have a long project printing through the night.
Replace the stock Creality controller with a board that can run TMC2209 stepper motor drive modules running in stealth-chop mode and the noise level from the steppers will drop dramatically. You won't be able to hear the printer from the next room.
Yeah the duets aren’t cheap but they work well. I have kossel printers and they are a whole new level of fun. I have an rpi configured as a router to the duet ethernet. It’s on a private subnet. I’ll have to check out superslicer.
So that’s a delta?
You should check out Klipper for the firmware. For me, its the bomb. It does support deltas.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Features.html
Even though we got conscientious support from the supplier we purchased it from through emails from China it was quite an ordeal adding the “self-leveling” sensor. Of course, my friend didn't realize that he would still have to level the huge bed... just not as often. He thought the operation was going to be completely automated. I tried to explain that no piece of glass was that size was going to be completely flat and that we needed the sensor to make up for the imperfections if he wanted good adhesion.
He needs to upgrade to a printer the does auto bed leveling. You use that in conjunction with bed probing, since the four corners may be "level", but that doesn't mean the bed is "flat". The auto bed leveling is nice when you use a different thickness build material, let says switch from glass to a PEI sheet. No screwing around with thumbscrews and a feeler gauge.
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