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The Bull About the Beef - Has the Atkins diet really transformed the American economy?
Slate ^ | September 15, 2003 | Charles Duhigg

Posted on 09/15/2003 6:12:23 PM PDT by SamAdams76

When Unilever PLC, the British food giant that owns Slim-Fast Foods, announced in July that U.S. profits had dropped 23 percent, it quickly pointed an accusing finger at the Atkins diet, the trendy weight-loss plan high in protein and low in carbohydrates. Atkins, Unilever's chairman explained, has set off shock waves in consumption that have cut Slim-Fast's profits, and there's no way to fight a fad.

Suddenly, Wall Street is blaming the diet craze for all sorts of economic upheavals, and the deafening buzz is almost enough to drown out economic sense. Time, the Economist, USA Today, and countless media outlets—marveling at the idea of slimming pork chops and heavy cream—have touted the commercial impact of the Atkins plan. The diet has been blamed for falling wheat prices and booming beef sales.

But is there really an Atkins economy?

Three months ago, the British Federation of Bakers made headlines when it announced that bread sales have declined 2 percent per year since Dr. Atkins' book was re-released in 1997. Wheat consumption has dropped from 147 pounds per person to 139 pounds in the past six years. And in May, the Tortilla Industry Association held a high-profile seminar titled "An Industry in Crisis: The High-Protein, Low-Carb Diet and Its Effects on the Tortilla Industry."

Atkins-friendly foods, on the other hand, are booming. News reports have credited Atkins for an increase in U.S. beef sales in 12 of the past 14 quarters. Prices on cattle futures have climbed from 65 cents per pound in 2001 to 82 cents per pound today (suggesting the beef market has grown by $3 billion in 3 years). Consumption of bacon and eggs are at 10-year highs. Beef jerky sales are up more than 40 percent in the past two years, and pork-rinds have tripled their market share to $496 million per year.

Entrepreneurs are rushing to join the party. Atkins Nutritionals Inc., the food company started by Atkins before his death this year, sold $100 million worth of 90 low-carb products last year. Weight Watchers is introducing a low-carb pasta. Michelob hawks its new beer Ultra with the slogan, "Lose the carbs. Not the taste." (Michelob refuses to specify how the beer is selling but says it has "exceeded expectations.") And in California, New York, and, improbably, Texas, you can get freshly prepared Atkins meals delivered hot to your door. No one can specify the size of the Atkins market, but experts estimate it's at least $1 billion per year.

"It's rare that a diet will have an impact on national trends," said Harry Balzer, the author of the annual Eating Patterns in America. "Atkins is the exception."

But Atkins is winning more credit than it deserves, say economists. It's an example of how media excitement about a cultural trend leads to misinterpretation of an economic trend.

The evidence most commonly cited to prove the Atkins diet is roiling the economy is a study by the Natural Marketing Institute that claims 25.4 million Americans—12 percent of the adult population—have tried the Atkins diet. But those numbers deserve a little skepticism. NMI's executive project director, Joe Marra, said the company doesn't specifically ask about the Atkins diet. Rather, under the methodology used by NMI in its survey of 2,000 families, anyone who forgoes bread for a few days in an attempt to lose a few pounds is considered an Atkins dieter.

But almost everyone else, including experts from the consumer information giant NPD Foodworld, pegs the number of Atkins dieters at closer to 3 percent of the nation's adult population—about 6 million people—based on statistical sampling.

The Research Institute on Livestock Pricing reports that the average American per-capita consumption of beef has increased 1.8 pounds per year since 1997—another 525 million pounds per year. If the 6 million Atkins dieters are consuming all that additional beef, then they are eating 87.5 pounds more meat per year than they previously did, which would mean they're now eating steak and burgers at every meal except breakfast. And that's just beef. Pork, chicken, eggs—if all the increases in Atkins-friendly foods are due to Atkins dieters, it's a wonder anyone has lost weight: They would have to be eating almost nonstop. (And those who note the surge in Atkins-friendly food tend to ignore an equally vigorous countertrend: Sales of Krispy Kreme donuts grew an amazing 25 percent last year, to $492 million, with cookies, potato chips, and other Atkins-verboten products following suit.)

So, why the increase in demand for beef, pork, and chicken? Atkins probably plays a small part, but it may have much more to do with everyday economics than any fad diet. Convenience, more than anything else, is what drives consumer trends, say experts. "Time is of the essence," said Balzer. "The trend in the last 15 years has been towards more convenient options. Cereal bars, toaster pastries, frozen breakfast sandwiches—that's where the growth has been."

"Today's family has two working parents," said Wayne Purcell, professor of agricultural and applied economics at Virginia Tech.* "They want something easy to prepare, and the meat industry is finally providing that."

Meat is suddenly convenient. Beef Magazine reported that last year more than 500 new "beef convenience" products were launched, and sales of frozen and heat-and-serve beef have hit $1.5 billion, up from virtually nothing a decade ago. For the first time beef is transitioning from a commodity to a branded product, with quality improving as a result. "Ten years ago people just bought steak, and it might be pretty tough," said Purcell. "Now they buy Omaha Steaks filet mignon, ready to heat up in minutes. Companies are putting out much better meat in order to compete."

But if the Atkins diet is supposed to help America lose weight, the push for convenience has the opposite effect. Economists at the National Bureau of Economic Research and University of Chicago persuasively argue that one of the biggest reasons for the nation's current obesity epidemic is that food is now so much cheaper and easier to prepare. "Forty percent of the recent growth in weight seems to be due to agricultural innovation that has lowered food prices," write Darius Lakdawalla of the RAND Corp. and Tomas Philipson of the University of Chicago.

It's simple supply and demand: When supply becomes more prevalent, demand is easier to satisfy. We're not eating more steak because of the Atkins diet, they say. We're eating more, simply because we can.


TOPICS: Culture/Society
KEYWORDS: atkinsdiet
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To: SamAdams76
Started Atkins in January and have gone from 243 pounds with 39 inch waist to 210 pounds and 36 inch waist. It has made a believer out of me besides I like the food. My wife also has done well with Atkins. My blood pressure down from 143/90 to 117/74. Have you tried pork rinds?
21 posted on 09/15/2003 7:12:26 PM PDT by drdemars
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To: SamAdams76
Great! (Memo to self: Sardines for lunch tomorrow!)
22 posted on 09/15/2003 7:13:07 PM PDT by Revolting cat! (Boss, I forgot to bring my tag line!)
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To: Okies love Dubya 2
read this
23 posted on 09/15/2003 7:18:18 PM PDT by Angry_White_Man_Syndrome (I'm Okies love Dubya 2's "other half")
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To: drdemars
Yes, I have had pork rinds from time to time during this diet. I like them but I don't keep them around the house because I find that it is difficult to not eat the entire bag. Weird, because I have no problem controlling my portions of other foods on this diet. I guess that pork rinds remind me of chips, and I used to be the classic example of a guy who couldn't eat a chip without finishing the whole bag. Why back in the day, I would think nothing of eating a huge bag of Doritos - as a snack!

I should mention that since starting this thing in April, I have not had a single chip, cookie, pastry, etc. Not a slice of cake nor a slice of pie. I vowed back in April that I would do what I had to do to lose the weight.

Last Sunday at a family party, I was surrounded by platters of desserts, snacks, etc., but I wasn't even tempted. I had my salad with olive oil, some cheese and a couple of pork chops. I have had no problem in this respect. Like you, I like the food in this "normal-carb" diet and it satisfies me.

24 posted on 09/15/2003 7:20:57 PM PDT by SamAdams76 (220.4 (-79.8) Earning back my youth one mile at a time)
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To: SamAdams76
Good job, Sam!
25 posted on 09/15/2003 7:26:45 PM PDT by Tribune7
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To: SamAdams76
Awesome pics. I started a low-carb effort just yesterday, along with my wife. I have more weight to lose than you did. I would probably be a candidate for bariatric surgery, & I know several who have lost a lot that way, but I intend to make a serious attempt to do it naturally... I tried a few years ago & lost about 25 lb, but got off the diet for whatever reason - I expect it'll be more convenient now, due to wider low-carb product availability. I have even found some no-carb BBQ sauce.
26 posted on 09/15/2003 7:27:21 PM PDT by Sloth ("I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!" -- Jacobim Mugatu, 'Zoolander')
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To: SamAdams76
Congratulations! I am amazed at your weight-loss! You look much younger in your after picture, as well! Keep up the good work!
27 posted on 09/15/2003 7:28:59 PM PDT by annyokie (One good thing about being wrong is the joy it brings to others.)
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To: SamAdams76
Congratulations on your weight loss. I went from 190 to 160 in a couple of months following the Atkins diet. Below is a low carb cheesecake recipe that is pretty damn good.

Crust: 1 1/4 cups finally ground almonds or cashews
1 tablespoon Splenda
6 tablespoons melted butter.
Mix all together and form ito a 9 inch springform pan. Refrigerate 15-30 minutes for crust to set.

Filling: 3-8 oz. packages of softened cream cheese (regular, not low fat!!!!)
1 cup Splenda
4 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

In a large bowl, beat cream cheese and 1 cup of Splenda until fluffy. Add eggs and 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Pour into springform pan and bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes (put a pan or cookie sheet under the cheesecake as springform pans tend to leak butter). Cheesecake will rise significantly during baking, but will settle after cooling. Keep chilled in refrigerator. Makes 16 servings at 5 grams of carbs per serving if made with almonds, 7 with cashews.

Let me know if you try it and like it. Also, I make Sugar Free Instant pudding with 1/2 and 1/2. The powder doesn't mix completly (flecks of chocolate), but it's pretty good all the same.

28 posted on 09/15/2003 7:29:49 PM PDT by Mean Daddy
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To: SamAdams76
When Unilever PLC, the British food giant that owns Slim-Fast Foods, announced in July that U.S. profits had dropped 23 percent, it quickly pointed an accusing finger at the Atkins diet,

A nice way of saying: Unilever began whining, "Whaaaaaaaaaaaa...people have figured out that our sugar laden beverages will not help them lose weight, just make them fatter."

BTW, Sam, you're looking good!

29 posted on 09/15/2003 7:30:06 PM PDT by Bella_Bru (For all your tagline needs. Don't delay! Orders shipped overnight.)
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To: SamAdams76
Congratulations!

Lowering carbs works wonders. Just by reducing carbs and going to the gym three days a week, I've gone from 205 to 193 in three weeks. My goal is to reach 180, which is about normal for a man my height and build.

My oldest sister and her husband are both doctors, and they thought I was nuts for considering even a modified form of Atkins.

But it seems to be working so far.
30 posted on 09/15/2003 7:36:19 PM PDT by Loyalist
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To: Mean Daddy
What is Splenda made from? I heard that artifical sweetners are verboten on most Adkins style diets.

Thanks for the information.
31 posted on 09/15/2003 7:37:49 PM PDT by annyokie (One good thing about being wrong is the joy it brings to others.)
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To: annyokie
Splenda is sucralose. Here is a websirte about it: SPLENDA
32 posted on 09/15/2003 7:38:55 PM PDT by Bella_Bru (For all your tagline needs. Don't delay! Orders shipped overnight.)
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To: drdemars
The pork skins are just about my favorite snack.
33 posted on 09/15/2003 7:39:44 PM PDT by dix
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To: Bella_Bru
Thanks, I'll go look.
34 posted on 09/15/2003 7:40:23 PM PDT by annyokie (One good thing about being wrong is the joy it brings to others.)
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To: SamAdams76
Good for you! I'm 5 weeks into this low carb diet and have dropped about 22 lbs so far.
35 posted on 09/15/2003 7:40:30 PM PDT by Rebelbase
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To: Bella_Bru
Hi Bella! Good to see you!

(I love splenda. I hear there will be a liquid version coming out soon and it has no carbs, unlike the packets.)
36 posted on 09/15/2003 7:41:59 PM PDT by diotima (So it's sorta social, demented and sad, but social.)
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To: SamAdams76
Congratulations and may you have continued success. I've been on a "modified" Atkins for a year after being diagnosed with Type II diabetes. Because of the diet, my glucose levels have returned to normal, so I do not have to take meds. Slowly lost 20 pounds but enjoyed my Mick Ultra during the whole time!

Economists at the National Bureau of Economic Research and University of Chicago persuasively argue that one of the biggest reasons for the nation's current obesity epidemic is that food is now so much cheaper and easier to prepare. "Forty percent of the recent growth in weight seems to be due to agricultural innovation that has lowered food prices," write Darius Lakdawalla of the RAND Corp. and Tomas Philipson of the University of Chicago.

That and government free food programs. Juvenile diabetes is an epidemic and we can blame the government for it.

37 posted on 09/15/2003 7:43:56 PM PDT by au eagle
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To: diotima
Splenda is awesome. And I am looking foward to the liquid version myself, as I love to put Splenda in my iced tea. It'll be nice not to have to worry about the carbs in the filler.

How have you been? :-)

38 posted on 09/15/2003 7:44:07 PM PDT by Bella_Bru (For all your tagline needs. Don't delay! Orders shipped overnight.)
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To: SamAdams76; SLB
The food pyramid was killing me but I just didn't know it at the time.

It's good that you've seen the light about gooberment advice. Aren't you about 6'4"? Didn't we meet in DC about 5 years ago at the MFJ?

Keep up the good work and thanks for the enlightening story of your battle of the belt-line.

39 posted on 09/15/2003 7:44:15 PM PDT by Fred Mertz
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To: Bella_Bru
I have been good, we have to get together soon!
40 posted on 09/15/2003 7:44:56 PM PDT by diotima (So it's sorta social, demented and sad, but social.)
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