Hamar is a city of circa 27,000, about 800 miles south of Gamvik and Berlevag (way up there between Hammerfest and Vardo, in case anyone is interested), or about 90 miles directly north of the capital of Norway, Oslo.I do not mean to be offensive, but of all the places I have (thus far) seen of Norway, Hamar seems a rather bleak, sterile, soulless place; it reminds me very much of the "artists' city" of Santa Fe, New Mexico--an "arty" place for the Birkenstock and Ben & Jerry's ice cream crowd.....and little else.Which is a pity, because Hamar actually has...