CLARKSBURG, W.Va. - It's midmorning at Bon Appetit, and the beignets are long gone. Behind a Plexiglas wall, a cook is chopping vegetables for lunch. Music heavy with brass is blaring, and Chef LeRoy Crump Jr. is rushing about with cell phone in hand, periodically stepping outdoors to greet a passer-by and tout the special, a Cajun shrimp cream pasta. The sign above his 2-week-old restaurant promises "Authentic New Orleans Cuisine and Spirits" — in small-town West Virginia, 1,000 miles from the French Quarter. After Hurricane Katrina destroyed his New Orleans home and restaurant, Crump traveled to Atlanta, then Daytona...