Posted on 03/23/2008 11:36:40 PM PDT by nw_arizona_granny
Americans finding soaring food prices hard to stomach can battle back by growing their own food. [Click image for a larger version] Dean Fosdick Dean Fosdick
Home vegetable gardens appear to be booming as a result of the twin movements to eat local and pinch pennies.
At the Southeastern Flower Show in Atlanta this winter, D. Landreth Seed Co. of New Freedom, Pa., sold three to four times more seed packets than last year, says Barb Melera, president. "This is the first time I've ever heard people say, 'I can grow this more cheaply than I can buy it in the supermarket.' That's a 180-degree turn from the norm."
Roger Doiron, a gardener and fresh-food advocate from Scarborough, Maine, said he turned $85 worth of seeds into more than six months of vegetables for his family of five.
A year later, he says, the family still had "several quarts of tomato sauce, bags of mixed vegetables and ice-cube trays of pesto in the freezer; 20 heads of garlic, a five-gallon crock of sauerkraut, more homegrown hot-pepper sauce than one family could comfortably eat in a year and three sorts of squash, which we make into soups, stews and bread."
[snipped]
She compares the current period of market uncertainty with that of the early- to mid-20th century when the concept of victory gardens became popular.
"A lot of companies during the world wars and the Great Depression era encouraged vegetable gardening as a way of addressing layoffs, reduced wages and such," she says. "Some companies, like U.S. Steel, made gardens available at the workplace. Railroads provided easements they'd rent to employees and others for gardening."
(Excerpt) Read more at dallasnews.com ...
(The work is one of the few studies to look at meat and dairy products. As such, the double-digit declines in the nutrient quality of meat and dairy products are some of the first indications that consumption of less nutrient-dense animal feed grains and forages has a measurable impact on the animals eating them, and perhaps secondarily, on people consuming the meat and milk from such animals.) <<<
Rodale wrote about this back in the 1950’s and 1960’s, I have one of his books on gardens/farms that has a 1946 newspaper clipping copied in it and it says that much of the mental illness that they were finding, came from growing our food on soil that had not been properly prepared and was dead as far as food value.
So I have no doubt that the store bought food it valueless, I know it does not have any taste.
Don’t give up, you can grow plants, follow some of the links that I have posted tonight, they are good ones.
Order a bunch of seed catalogs, you will learn from them.
See if the library has a copy of the Compost book by Rodale, it would have been published in the 1960’s or that is when I bought mine.
My husband’s parents live in Hereford Arizona,<<<
That is or was pretty country, but not a good choice for living today, no place near a border is safe.
We moved up here 31 years ago.
[and I am still complaining]
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=5309&categoryid=280
Gardening To Nurture The Spirit
by Yvonne Cunnington
by Yvonne Cunnington
I am a garden writer and photographer living near Hamilton, Ont. My articles have appeared in Chatelaine, Canadian Living, Canadian Gardening and Gardening Life magazines. My book for beginner gardeners, Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless (Key Porter Books) was published in 2003.
My husband and I tend a large country garden, which has been featured on TV’s Gardeners Journal and in Gardening Life magazine. We have had numerous bus tours visit our garden.
Visit her website at http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/
June 3, 2007
In her own garden Karen York, the author of The Holistic Garden: Creating Spaces for Health and Healing (Prentice Hall Canada, 2001), puts into practice what she preaches. “Of course, the garden didn’t start out that way,” says York, “like most gardens, it kept evolving – through the years, we just kept digging up more lawn and adding plants and shaping the space so it would please us.”
York’s garden and book are full of ideas to help you create your own personal garden sanctuary to nurture mind, body and spirit. “First,” she says, “don’t worry overly about the which plants to get at the beginning, but spend some time thinking how you can shape the space to create a feeling of serenity.”
Here are her favorite tips:
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Create an inviting entry – A gate, an arbour, an opening in hedge or even walking through an attractive grouping of pots or a pair of upright evergreens gives the sense that you are entering a special space.
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Invite diversity – York calls this “the kid-in-a-candy-store effect”. In terms of natural and garden ecology, the more diversity of species, the healthier the environment. In human terms, the more variety in the garden, the more there is to stimulate the senses. Think about how you can incorporate sight (a variety of textures, contrasts, forms and colors), sound (water features, trees and shrubs to encourage birds), fragrance (from intoxicatingly scented flowers to aromatic herbs), taste (edibles, including veggies and herbs or perhaps berries) and touch (smooth stones, rough rocks, downy leaves, fluffy seed heads, and so on).
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Create enclosure – spaces that are enclosed provide a welcome sense of security and sanctuary and downright practical protection from natural forces such cold winds and burning sun. “You might enclose the entire garden with a hedge or a fence, or just set off a smaller personal space within the garden,” says York. Trees can add to the feeling enclosure by giving the garden a ceiling. To idea is to create a welcome measure of privacy.
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Encourage a sense of mystery – “A garden should beguile. It may have a path going off into the distance or around a corner or the sound of water – something to draw you in,” she explains.
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Go for natural shapes – “The rounded shapes of hills, ponds and other natural features are deeply pleasing in a way that hard-edged human construction often isn’t,” says York. Rather than clipping them to within an inch of their lives, most plants are happier left to grow into their natural shapes and forms. “The world definitely doesn’t need more forsythia balls,” she adds.
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Creating a serenity corner in your garden
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Choose a spot with privacy in mind – the element that screens out the world (or an unwanted view, for that matter) may a shrub or tree, or it could be a built structure, such as a trellis fence or pergola. Do try to soften built elements with plants, such as vines. Consider a spot in the shade – it’s safer for your skin and more comfortable than a sitting in the hot sun.
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Add water. It could be as simple as tucking a birdbath, assembling a pond in a pot with a small fountain, or setting out a ceramic container brimming with water into a foliage rich corner. If you are thinking about adding a permanent pond or a reflecting pool, York’s advice is to make it twice as big as you think. “Otherwise, I guarantee you’ll be wishing you had made it bigger.”
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Pick a comfortable seat – or preferably two, so you can welcome company. Try out garden chairs, lounges or benches before buying. If it isn’t comfortable, you won’t use it. Add outdoor-proof cushions to double your comfort, and a small table, to give you a spot to serve a snack and set down a drink or your book when you’d rather lie back and relax.
For more garden design ideas, visit Yvonne’s website: www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com and click on “Garden Design”.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=2184&categoryid=280
Make Your Own Garden Gold
Mixing up Leaf Mold in the Back Yard
by Donna Balzer
by Donna Balzer
email: dbalzer@cadvision.com
Donna Balzer is a garden consultant in Calgary, Alberta and is also the garden columnist for the Calgary Herald . Her columns appear year round and apply directly to the prairie gardener. Balzer may also be heard seasonally on CBC radio’s The Eye Opener program in Southern Alberta.
August 13, 2006
1pt.gif (86 bytes)Leaf mold compared to compost is sort of like skim milk compared to whole. Leaf mold is a thinner version of compost with all the extra fat cut out. While a compost is expected to be full of nutrients as well as fiber because of its ingredients which range from coffee grounds to lawn clippings and dry leaves, the thinner version - leaf mold - is strictly fiber. It is composed entirely of leaves saved in the fall and has special uses for locations in the garden where extra organic matter is needed to acidify the soil or to improve the soil’s structure without adding extra fertility. It is most commonly known as the duff layer in a forest where fallen leaves have built up over the years.
1pt.gif (86 bytes)In the forest, this leaf mold layer is like gold. It lays on the soil protecting both the fine tree roots and the soil’s inhabitants and is gradually drawn down into the soil by insects and other small soil dwelling critters. Before the leaves blowing around in your yard are swept up and tossed out or used in a mixed compost it is good to consider putting a pile aside to make your own garden gold. Once leaves are combined with other vegetable matter the compost created is best used as a soil topdressing, vegetable garden amendment or all purpose soil additive.
1pt.gif (86 bytes)Leaves, when separated and made into leaf mold are ideal for starting seedlings, mixing into potting soil or saving as a special topdressing for shrub and tree beds. Mold is very low in nutrients so makes a good soil additive where the soil is too rich from previous additions of manure or fertilizer.
1pt.gif (86 bytes)Leaves left on the lawn will rot where they lay and may ruin patches of lawn as they compost. Leaves naturally laying in soil beds may be left there because this is ideal for the health of the trees and shrubs. But what do you do with the pile of leaves drifting into your driveway or across the lawn and road? If you have the free ingredients on hand, here are the basics for turning this bulk commodity into gold - an excellent soil additive for the cost of a few minutes of effort:
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The first stage in making leaf mold is to collect and crush leaves. While forest leaves compost down from whole leaves, garden leaf mold is made quicker from leaves that have been chopped up. Piling the leaves loosely on the lawn and then mowing over them and catching them in the mower bag will chop them finely enough to get a quick start. If you don’t have a mower bag, simply bag the leaves and employ your kids to jump on the bags to crush the leaves finely.
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The dry leaves can be stored dry in bags until you have gathered a quantity or they may be piled in the chosen spot, watered and left to rot. If you own a composter the leaves may be put exclusively into this special container. Excess leaves that are bagged may be stored dry until needed in the future if there isn’t enough room in the compost area for all your leaves at once.
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Within a year the ground leaves in the pile will be mostly rotted and ready to use. If you look at the pile and still see leaf parts this is okay for use on top of soil in shrub beds but it probably won’t work yet for starting seeds.
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If you want to skip step 2 and 3 you can simply chop up whatever leaves you have with your lawn mower and spread them directly on your shrub areas. I often wait to spread them until after the soil has frozen in the later fall but it is possible to do it as soon as leaves are available just to save steps.
1pt.gif (86 bytes)The final effect of adding leaf mold rather than raking up and tossing leaves away is that the organic matter added to the soil this way is invaluable for its fiber which greatly improves the soil structure. The chemistry of the leaves is also important. Most leaf molds - like composts - are acidic by nature and this acidity is a bonus for our soils which tend to be basic which is a negative trait for plant growth overall. One small reminder is that leaf mold, unlike compost or manure, is not high in nutrients so is not a substitution for fertilizer or for the other organic additives when plants require more fertility. Roses, for example, prefer a higher fertility and would do better with a fall bag of manure at each plant’s base than a lean and nutrient meager addition of leaf mold.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=4723&categoryid=280
Twenty Tips for Producing Low-Allergy Gardens
by Thomas Ogren
by Thomas Ogren
email: tloallergyfree@earthlink.net
Thomas Leo Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening. His most recent book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published March 2003, by Ten Speed Press. Two of his previous books, both novels, were published by New Readers Press, and are used nationwide in adult literacy programs.
Tom does consulting work for the USDA, the American Lung Association, for Allegra.com, and recently for county asthma coalitions. He is considered to be the leading authority on pollen-producing male cultivars, and on their opposites: pollen-free female plants. He is currently working on a book about lawns, for AOL Time Warner Books.
Tom and his wife, Yvonne, have four children. They live in San Luis Obispo, California.
October 8, 2006
What we plant in our own yards often has a direct effect on our own health and the health of those near us. A pollen-producing male tree in our own yard will easily expose us to ten times more pollen than would a similar tree growing just down the block. This can be compared to second-hand smoke. Yes, it is possible to inhale some smoke from a person who is smoking a block or two away from you, but it is hardly the same as someone smoking right next to you. It is the same with plants. If your own yard is full of allergenic plants, then you will be exposed most.
The greater your exposure, the greater your chances are of having allergies and (or) asthma. Here are some tips to avoid allergies and asthma.
1. Don’t plant any male trees or shrubs. These are often sold as “seedless” or “fruitless” varieties but they’re males and they all produce large amounts of allergenic pollen.
2. Do plant female trees and shrubs. Even though these may be messier than males, they produce no pollen, and they actually trap and remove pollen from the air. There is also some very good all-female sod to use for pollen-free lawns. As an added bonus, these female lawns stay low and require less frequent mowing.
3. Plant disease-resistant varieties: mildew, rust, black spot and other plant diseases all reproduce by spores and these spores cause allergies. Disease resistant plants won’t get infected as much and the air around them will be healthier.
4. Use only trees and shrubs well adapted for your own climate zone. Plants grown in the wrong zone will often fail to thrive. Because they are not healthy, they will be magnets for insects. Insect residue, “honeydew,” is a prime host for molds and molds produce allergenic mold spores. Often native plants will be the healthiest choices.
5. Be careful with the use of all insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides. Accidental exposure to all of these chemical pesticides has been shown to cause breakdowns in the immune system. Sometimes one single heavy exposure to a pesticide will result in sudden hypersensitivity to pollen, spores, and to other allergens. This is as true for pets as it is for their owners. Go organic as much as possible. Make and use compost!
6. Diversity is good. Don’t plant too much of the same thing in your landscapes. Use a wide selection of plants. Lack of diversity often causes over-exposure. Use lots of variety in your gardens.
7. Wild birds are a big plus because they eat so many insects. Plant fruiting trees and shrubs to encourage more birds. Suet also attracts many insect-eating birds. Insect dander causes allergies and birds consume an incredible amount of aphids, whiteflies, scale, and other invertebrate pests.
8. Use pollen-free selections whenever possible. There are many hybrids with highly doubled flowers and in many cases these flowers lack any male, pollen parts. Formal double chrysanthemums, for example, usually have no pollen. Another example would be almost all of the erect tuberous begonias. These have complete female flowers, but their male flowers have nothing but petals, making them pollen-free.
9. If you simply must have some high-allergy potential plants in your yard, just because you love them, then watch where you plant them. Don’t use any high-allergy plants near bedroom windows or next to patios, well-used walkways, or by front or back doors. Place the highest allergy plants as far away from the house as possible and downwind of the house too. Remember: the closer you are to the high-allergy tree or shrub, the greater is your exposure.
10. Know the exact cultivar name of a tree or shrub before you buy it. Don’t buy any that are not clearly tagged with the correct cultivar (variety) name and the Latin, scientific name. Compare the exact name of the plant with its OPALS/TM allergy ranking. With this scale, 1 is least allergenic, and 10 is the most allergenic. Try to achieve a landscape that averages at OPALS #5, or below.
11. If you have a tree or hedge that has high allergy potential and don’t want to remove it, consider keeping it heavily sheared so that it will flower less. Boxwood, for example, has allergenic flowers but if pruned hard each year, it will rarely bloom at all.
12. Get involved with your own city’s tree and parks departments, and encourage them to stop planting any more wind-pollinated male trees. There are thousands of fine choices of street trees that do not cause any allergies and we should be using these instead. Working together we can make a healthy difference, and we’ll all breathe better for our efforts.
13. Some localities have enacted pollen-control ordinances. These prohibit the sale and planting of the most highly allergenic trees and shrubs. These ordinances can help save lives and lead to more responsible and more considerate landscaping. Why not get involved and have such a rule of law in your own community?
14. There are a great many very useful female cultivars of Red Maple (Acer rubrum), such as ‘October Glory’ and ‘Red Sunset.’ These trees have exceptional fall color and are pollen-free.
15. Female Junipers (Juniperus spp.) are pollen-free and have beautiful blue-green berries. Numerous female cultivars are sold, such as ‘Blue Point,’ ‘Icee Blue,’ and ‘Hollywood Juniper.’
16. Some trees such as the sycamores and London Plane trees (both Platanus species) produce fuzz on their leaves and stems. This fuzz can become airborne and causes skin rash, itching, and irritation of the eyes, throat and lungs. If you must use them, avoid planting them too close to your house.
17. Pets can and do get allergies too. Often the exact same plants that cause us allergy, will also affect our pets. Dogs and cats in particular may be allergic to pollen. Animals can’t tell us what bothers them. They need us to look out for them.
18. Children are especially susceptible to allergies and asthma. It is crucial that the shade trees in elementary schools be selected to be as pollen-free as possible. Asthma is now the number one most common chronic childhood disease.
19. Older people and especially those in hospitals or retirement homes are also at increased risk from excessive pollen. Shrubs near windows need to be allergy-free. Pollen is tiny and can easily pass through even the tightest window screens.
20. Trees and shrubs next to any bedroom windows will have a large effect on the health of the people inside these bedrooms. Poisonous plants such as Podocarpus or Yews, if they are male, will shed many millions of grains of airborne pollen. Pollen from the males of these two species is both allergenic and poisonous.
*Note, with the dioecious plants (separate-sexed) only males cause pollen-allergy, and females because they are pollen free, do not. Some examples of some of these dioecious plants are: red maple, silver maple, box elder, holly, willow, aspen, cottonwood, poplar, fringe tree, pepper tree, carob tree, Osage orange, mulberry, cedar, juniper, Podocarpus, yews, ash, date palms, and even such common garden plants as asparagus.
© Copyright Thomas Leo Ogren
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=5633&categoryid=280
Vegetable Container Combinations
by Dan Clost
by Dan Clost
email: dan.clost@sympatico.ca
First serious garden earned 25 cents from the Kemptville Horticultural Society when I was 12. Have been poor in horticulture ever since but rich in spirit.
Went to work writing the Good Earth column (over 500 articles published in newspaper, magazine, website and journal.) and learned that what was printed wasn’t what I wanted to say and certainly not what Gentle Reader understood me to say. Subsequently have developed a certain clarity and economy of words.
Day job- nursery and production manager for a large nursery/garden centre
Side job- Garden restoration and renovations, design consultations, remedial pruning.
Night job- garden writer and communicator (overnight success in another 20 years)
April 23, 2006
It is certainly time to start some seeds indoors. Let’s look at growing specialty mixes of vegetables in containers. Most of these containers should measure about 24 inches or 65 centimetres across. It’s a good idea to get as tall, or as deep, a planter as you reckon you can carry safely with the resources at hand. Gentle Reader, you are the primary resource at hand; secondary resources are anyone else you can inveigle to shift them about for you. Actually, if you set them in place before you fill them with a growing medium you will reduce the strength requirements. Also, you can purchase little plant casters, trucks, dollies or whatever phrase suits you. Think of it as a tray with wheels upon which you set your container. This affair will came in handy for moving the veggie plot across the deck or balcony to chase the sun, or hide from it, as the day progresses.
The deeper the soil in the pot the better. remember that even though we are growing delicious vegetables, we are container gardening and must take into account some of the cultural needs. The deep soil will act as a temperature buffer and a moisture conserver, especially if you purchase specialty mixes with water conservation technology included. deep soil means good anchors for roots of top heavy plants such as tomatoes and peppers, and it means a place for your root crops to burrow into. Fertilise every 2 to 3 weeks unless you add a time release product to soil; very important especially during flowering times of tomatoes, beans and peppers. Harvest ripe fruits immediately to encourage continue production. You will read more about container gardening later, right now, it is time to sow some seeds.
These container vegetable combinations are promulgated by the National Garden Bureau of America.
Salsa garden Bush type tomato, jalapeno or hotter pepper, cilantro.
Sow cilantro seeds around the edge of the container. If you want onion in your salsa plant them in a separate deep planter. (Dan’s note: match containers up, maybe add another bit of hardscape to make decorative grouping. Maybe repaint some of those ugly garden gnomes as Italian chefs)
Pesto Pot Basil, garlic and parsley (optional)
Rainbow Patterns Any red patio tomato, purple or white eggplant, a couple of green, orange, red or yellow sweet peppers, green and purple-leaved basils around the edge.
Fines Herbs Box Tarragon, chives parsley and chervil. Set the first two perennials at the rear of the pot so you wont disturb their roots at the end of the season when you pull up the other plants.
Bouquet Garni Bonanza Chervil, or parsley, thyme and marjoram around a centred sweet bay tree.
Stir-Fry Selection Chives (narrow) eggplant, any hot pepper, snow peas, and bok choy. Sow snow peas and bok choy in early spring and again in mid to late summer for a fall harvest.
Salad Bowl Patio tomato and sweet pepper ( in centre of round container) or at each end or a rectangular one, one or two cucumber plants near edge - let them spill over sides, without support, radishes, and red and green lettuces to fill the other spaces.
Soup Mix Lemon grass, thyme, parsley chives chervil and scallions.
Pizza Sauce Bush tomatoes, sweet green pepper, onion or scallions and oregano
Seasonal Garden Spring leaf lettuce followed by summer beans on a tepee succeeded by fall peas. Set up tepee when you plant lettuce seedlings. Sow beans while lettuce is still growing. Plants provide lettuce with a of shade from hot sun. Sow peas in late summer where lettuce was and while beans continue to produce.
Kids corner Radishes, tomato plant, bush beans basil and carrots. Alternate clumps of basil and bean seeds in a circle around tomato. Mix seed of radishes and carrots together radishes will be pulled before carrots need space to spread out.
A gentle reminder folks, hunger is an insidious and invisible presence in our community. When you grow food, think of slipping some of your harvested bounty to those in need.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=4258&categoryid=280
Companion Planting Is Easy
by John Harmon
May 4, 2006
Spring came early to Whitehorse this year but it’s a false spring. Don’t get excited, it’s still going to be a month before you will be able to safely plant anything outdoors. Don’t let this record breaking spring weather lull you into thinking we won’t get any frost for the next month!
While you’re waiting you can start planning which plants you will plant and in what groupings. There is considerable evidence to suggest that companion planting will help you to grow bigger and better plants anywhere in your yard or garden and it’s easy to do.
Companion planting is an age-old practice carried out in all parts of the world where there is agriculture. Companion planting was thought to be mostly folklore and “modern” farmers tended to dismiss it. In the last few decades research has confirmed that in many cases there is a scientific basis for plants helping to repel insects or supplying chemicals to the soil for the benefit of other plants.
You can make your own judgment as to the validity of the claims but try a few and see how it works for you. Here’s a list of some of the plants used in groupings and what they are reported to do.
The foliage of marigolds is said to repel bean beetles, tomato fruit worms, flea beetles and whitefly. The roots will kill nematodes (tiny soil-borne worms) if planted in the same place for a few years. Many folks plant these flowers all around their gardens.
Nasturtiums are reported to repel squash bugs and the like from cucumbers, melons and squash. You can plant them next to radishes to give them a better flavor. Many of the nasturtium varieties are also edible and the flowers can go into the summer salad.
One of the oldest plants grown around the world is garlic. It is used in so many foods that almost everyone uses it in one form or another. Garlic is renowned for repelling people when eaten fresh in quantity and is also said to repel Japanese beetles, aphids, caterpillars and sucking bugs when grown in the garden. It’s also believed to be an effective protection from vampires.
Chives is a plant that seems to enhance the growth of carrots and tomatoes and are said to repel many insects. Don’t plant garlic or chives near beans, as it is believed to inhibit their growth. I like to grow these plants in clumps and harvest them a handful at a time.
Sweet Marjoram is another herb that is useful in the garden most anywhere. I can’t find anything that it’s not supposed to be planted near so it’s a good choice for beginners.
One of my favorite dishes is new potatoes fried up with some fresh dill. Dill is said to help members of the cabbage family but will stunt the growth of carrots so make sure they keep their distance.
Basil is one of those herbs that is also used around the world and in many dishes. This herb is reported to go good with tomatoes and some gardener’s claim it will repel mosquitoes. I hope it works on the mosquitoes because they are already out in force! Keep potatoes, dill and cabbage away from tomato plants.
Some plants go together so well that they have been planted together for many hundreds of years. A good example is beans, corn and squash. The practice of planting them together goes back to before the Europeans came to North America.
Corn uses nitrogen while beans are a legume and put nitrogen back into the soil while climbing the corn stalks for support. Squash vines cover the ground and help to retain moisture while being stimulated by the corn. It’s a veritable vegetable `menage a trois’. The seeds of all three were planted together at the same time. You don’t see commercial fields done this way because it would be a nightmare to harvest with modern farming equipment.
There are many more combinations of flowers and herbs to go together or with your vegetables and whole books are available on the subject if you decide to try more. The Yukon Agriculture Branch has some books in their library and many of the organic gardening books give comprehensive lists.
For everything you ever wanted to know about companion planting and a list of more books check out http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/complant.html.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=5865&categoryid=280
A Garden for Cats
by Leonard Perry
by Leonard Perry
email: lpperry@uvm.edu
In extension I serve as an advisor and consultant to the greenhouse and nursery industry, primarily in Vermont but throughout the region and beyond as well.
I give presentations on my research to the industry, and to home groups.
In Research, my focus is “herbaceous perennial production systems”.
His website is at http://www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry/index.html
September 11, 2005
While many people want to keep cats out of the garden, if you’d rather invite them in, here’s what you do. Create a garden for your feline friends by planting catnip, catmint, and other plants they love. In fact, giving cats their own space may help keep them out of your flower beds and vegetable plot.
Because cats will want to eat, sleep, and play in their garden, the plants may become bedraggled, bent, or broken. So, you’ll probably want to tuck the garden behind a garage or in a corner of the yard. It’s also a good idea to isolate it from favorite flowers or your vegetable crops.
Prepare the soil as you would any new garden, working plenty of organic matter and fertilizer into the soil. Clay and sandy soils especially will benefit from the addition of compost or peat moss. Water frequently throughout the season.
Although not all cats respond the same way to all so-called cat aphrodisiacs, most will go crazy over catnip (Nepeta cataria). Long before anyone discovered that this plant, a native of Europe, triggered a response in cats, it was used for tea and as a medicinal herb to treat a number of ailments. It is also said to be an effective mosquito repellent.
Plant catnip in full sun in well-drained soil. Plants will grow to a height of nine to 12 inches, producing tiny lavender flowers beginning in early summer.
Most cats also will adore catmint (Nepeta mussinii), which induces similar frenzies in cats. The plant has silvery leaves, and flowers ranging in color from white to dark blue, depending on variety. The compact plants make a nice place for an afternoon catnap. For best results, this cultivar needs to be grown in a sunny location.
No cat’s garden would be complete without cat thyme (Teucrium marum) or valerian (Valeriana officianalis). The first is a member of the mint family and has deep green leaves and purple spires. A Mediterranean native, it may grow to heights of one to two feet if planted in full sun in a moist, well-drained spot. It is related to the herb Germander, not the herb Thyme, so its common name is misleading!
Valerian, a sedative for humans but a stimulant for cats, also goes by the name garden heliotrope. It’s an attractive plant with fern-like foliage and fragrant pink, white, or lavender flowers. At maturity, plants may reach heights of three to four feet.
The one drawback of planting this is that it may attract rats although that won’t be a problem if your cats are good hunters or you plant plenty of catnip, a known deterrent to these undesirable rodents. Valerian can be grown in sun or partial shade and is not particular fussy about soil conditions.
In addition to planting a smorgasbord of favorite plants, be sure to leave a patch of loose dirt for rolling and digging. Compost is sometimes even better than dirt for cats, but if you use this in a good flowerbed be aware that they may use this for a litter box! You can put some wire mesh under mulch or compost to make less attractive.
Add some shade with a small teepee of boards or half a plastic culvert, burying the bottom few inches in the soil so it won’t collapse in heavy rain or wind or by roughhousing by playful cats.
The culvert or similar structure also provides a secure hideout for them, or protection if being chased. It saves them from getting stuck up a tree!
Just make sure it is not too large for small kids to climb in and get stuck. It also provides cover in bad weather, as does an open area under porch or nearby shed.
Consider adding a water feature like small pond for drinking water for your cats. However, if you put in fish, you may need to place a net just under the water surface to protect them!
If you have bird feeders near your garden, make sure that they are high enough so the cats can’t climb up to get birds. I put mine on a pole so I can easily take them down, or on a pulley and rope to lower them, when I need to refill.
Finally, cats like to nibble on grass. So, include some nice grassy plants in your garden or leave a patch of unmown grass near the garden for munching. Then sit back, relax, and watch your pets enjoy their new outdoor space.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=3842&categoryid=280
Christmas Folklore and Traditions
by Judith Rogers
by Judith Rogers
email: lavendercottage.rogers@gmail.com
Judith Rogers is a freelance garden writer with a weekly column ‘The Gardener’s Corner’ in the Innisfil Scope; other articles appear in various publications. Judith is a master gardener with a certificate in Horticulture from Guelph University, a member of the Garden Writers Association and editor of the newsletter for the Gilford and District Horticultural Society. She actively volunteers at the South Innisfil Arboretum and has taught gardening classes in Innisfil through the Parks and Recreation Department and the Lakeshore Library. Presentations are done for horticultural societies on various gardening topics, particularly on how to create a backyard wildlife habitat. For Judith, gardening is a passion for which there is always something new to learn and she keeps up with currents trends, products and plant introductions by regularly attending seminars. Lavender Cottage is a haven for wildlife as it is a certified residential wildlife habitat and Project Feeder Watch is a yearly event Judith enjoys to keep connected with the birds over winter.
December 18, 2005
As you decorate for the holidays, take a moment to reflect on the family traditions that take place every year in your home. Some of these involve plants that invoke a little magic into the tradition and our lives. We know they have been revered for a long time by their presence in Christmas carols and stories.
The most easily recognized plant is the evergreen Christmas tree; whether it be fir, pine or cedar. Rituals of ancient cultures used evergreen trees to celebrate the winter solstice as they symbolized life, continuing to grow even in the coldest of winters. During the Middle Ages, ‘Paradise Trees’ were decorated with apples, the forbidden fruit of Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden.
At the beginning of the nineteenth century, pioneers often brought greenery into their homes to provide some life and colour during the dreary winter months. At Christmas, the trees were adorned with garlands of berries and popcorn.
Wreaths symbolize the never ending circle of life - no beginning and no end. Those made with natural materials are more significant as they weave nature within the circle.
Supposedly, a young girl from Bethlehem had nothing to offer the Christ Child but the small wreath of holly leaves she had made. Ashamed of her meager gift, she wept as she presented it to him. When the tears touched the leaves, they became glossy and scarlet berries appeared.
The use of an Advent wreath from the Latin word Adventus, meaning ‘the arrival’ is a custom many churches practice. Four candles encircle a white one in the center which symbolizes the Christ. Each of the four Sundays before Christmas one candle is lit and the center white one, lit on Christmas Eve.
These legends of folklore wouldn’t be complete without the mention of mistletoe. It has many tales of origin; most conclude that it is a parasite that grows on trees like Spanish moss and the berries are poisonous. Possibly dropped down as a gift from the gods, mistletoe would still be a lustrous green even when the host tree had died; thus symbolizing eternal life of the soul, as the soul of the tree was still alive.
Mistletoe was hung over doors to ward off evil spirits, ensure fertility and to entice enemies to forgive each other. Guests entering the home were expected to embrace under the mistletoe. Eventually, the embrace became a kiss and girls who refused one under it would become an old maid.
Kissing under the mistletoe has become a Christmas tradition to express warmth and affection; particularly evident when Mommy is seen kissing Santa Claus underneath the mistletoe at night.
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=5448&categoryid=280
Sowing Seeds Part 1
by Dan Clost
by Dan Clost
email: dan.clost@sympatico.ca
First serious garden earned 25 cents from the Kemptville Horticultural Society when I was 12. Have been poor in horticulture ever since but rich in spirit.
Went to work writing the Good Earth column (over 500 articles published in newspaper, magazine, website and journal.) and learned that what was printed wasn’t what I wanted to say and certainly not what Gentle Reader understood me to say. Subsequently have developed a certain clarity and economy of words.
Day job- nursery and production manager for a large nursery/garden centre
Side job- Garden restoration and renovations, design consultations, remedial pruning.
Night job- garden writer and communicator (overnight success in another 20 years)
February 5, 2006
Now is the time to purchase the seeds and read the packet labels. It does you little good to stand there in April and read about a 10 day germination period followed by 21 days before being able to go outdoors. Additionally, now is the time that most outlets should have their new line of seeds available for us.
Another thing about reading the label. Pay close attention to the actual name. If you want sugar peas in the veggie patch, don’t buy sweet peas. Sounds simple, I know, but there are people who have made similar errors.
The second bit of information has already been mentioned. Read it again to fine tune the exact planting time. See how many days there are from sowing before you can put them outside. Match this up with our last probable severe frost date (the 2-4 weekend is a good starting point) and count backwards until you get the actual sowing date. If you’re not sure, please ask your gardening neighbours.
A third bit is to see if the seeds need any special techniques to encourage them to germinate. Some need cold treatment, some need heat, some need to be soaked in water overnight etc.
Almost any container will do especially the ubiquitous margarine tub. It is best to use a small tray in which you can place your tubs or cell packs or even straight medium. The purpose of the medium is to keep moisture around the seed and to provide stability when it begins to send forth its shoots. Use soil-less mix: the new plant uses stored food in seed. It has no roots to take up nutrients from the soil.
Fill the container with medium, scatter seeds evenly over the top, cover lightly with more mix, mist with water. Always keep moist, never wet.
For small seeds mix with fine sand for even distribution. Use a flour sifter to cover them.
Next is important: label, label, label. Newly emerging seedlings share a certain oneness of appearance. Masking tape stuck on the side of the flat isn’t going to cut it. . Pencil on a popsicle stick is good, just remember to darken up the writing every now and then.
Cover the tray with clear plastic unless they need the dark. If so, just use black plastic. Find a warm place for them. If you only have a few, the top of the fridge is an ideal spot. Mist them daily.
Once sprouting starts, remove the cover. Rotate the container a little bit every day so the seedlings don’t bend to reach the light. Fluorescent lights should be about 7,5 - 10cm above the plants. Any further and they may develop spindly stems.
The first set of leaves, cotyledons, are not true leaves . When the second set appear you can transplant them into their growing medium. Gently grasp them by the cotyledons and prise them out of their first home with small stick or dibble. Use the dibble to poke a hole in the new spot and set the plant in there. Gently firm the soil around the roots. You can fertilise with a weak compost tea, fish emulsion or dilute water soluble solution.
When the warm weather arrives, begin hardening them off by setting them outside for a few hours daily, preferably in a cold frame. Once all danger of frost has passed, you can set them outside in their permanent locations.
Stay tuned for Dan’s part 2!
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=5449&categoryid=280
Sowing Seeds Part 2
by Dan Clost
by Dan Clost
email: dan.clost@sympatico.ca
First serious garden earned 25 cents from the Kemptville Horticultural Society when I was 12. Have been poor in horticulture ever since but rich in spirit.
Went to work writing the Good Earth column (over 500 articles published in newspaper, magazine, website and journal.) and learned that what was printed wasn’t what I wanted to say and certainly not what Gentle Reader understood me to say. Subsequently have developed a certain clarity and economy of words.
Day job- nursery and production manager for a large nursery/garden centre
Side job- Garden restoration and renovations, design consultations, remedial pruning.
Night job- garden writer and communicator (overnight success in another 20 years)
February 12, 2006
Sometimes, Gentle Reader, it’s difficult to cover all the aspects of a topic in a single column. Last week’s exercise on sowing seeds brought this to the fore. This type of column lends itself to general advice that covers the most common situations. However, even the common can be involved and a bit complicated. A few questions have been directed this way and, perhaps, that is the best way to resolve any missed bits from the first article. What follows is a recounting of those questions.
When Do I sow the seeds?
Just to add a bit of clarification to last week’s advice. There are three time periods of which we need to be aware. From the time we sow the seed to the time we see a new shoot poking its tips through the medium is called the germination period. It can be anywhere from 3 to 14 days. From the that time until we can actually see a flower or harvest a fruit is called the growing period. The growing period may last the entire summer and fall or it might be significantly shorter. Two examples of this would be an indeterminate tomato and a snap pea. The third time frame is called the growing season. It varies depending upon your area and possible micro-climates but it is generally the length of time from the last spring frost to the first fall frost. This is the actual outdoor time available for the plant. The growing season can be extended by sowing seeds indoors and the use of cold frames out of doors.
How do I feed my seeds?
You don’t need to feed them. They have no roots to take in anything. The new plant will use the food stored in the seed. Once you transplant them, though, you need to provide them with nutrients. Some potting soils have a shot of fertiliser mixed in with them that allow the plants to begin using it as soon as they are ready. This little bit of value added product allows us a wee bit of leeway without penalising the plant for our lack of diligence.
My seedlings fall over because of weak, narrow stems. What do I do?
This is called damping off and is the result of a fungus attacking the stems. There are two solutions. The first is to increase air movement around the stems by setting a small fan nearby. The second solution is to use a product called No Damp that kills the fungus. ( As a side note: I came across this tip in one of the organic magazines. “There’s no need to use a synthetic product to control damping off. I took apart an old refrigerator, removed the fan, rigged up a switch, created an oscillating feature and spent a few minutes setting the arc. No problems and everything worked fine. Umm..G.R., don’t do this; just buy the fan .)
By the way, this diagnostic works for damping off only if all your plants exhibit these symptoms. If only a few of them flop over or have crushed stems, compare the size of the damaged area to the size of your kitty’s paws.
How do I untangle the seedlings when I transplant them?
Larry Hodgson has this tip: scoop them out of the original container with a spoon and set them into a cup of water. As the soil washes off, lift up the plants by their leaves. The roots will untangle all by themselves. Dan’s note: use this little trick when you start planting those fibre pot containers of onions in the spring.
When I transplant them, how deep do I set the roots?
Bury the roots and the bottom part of the stem all the way down to the first set of leaves. New roots most often grow from the stem. By the way, consider supplementing the soil not with fertiliser but with some form of mychorihizal product such as Myke.
I hope this covers it G.R. If you’re doing the seed thing this year, it’s time to get cracking.
I have gotten too tired to keep posting, so am posting the main links that I have open on my toolbar, there are many pages here to read, have fun:
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewcategory&categoryid=279
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewcategory&categoryid=2
http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm
[this will keep you up all night]
CYNDI’S CATALOG OF GARDEN CATALOGS
Mail-Order Gardening Resources
The home gardener’s one stop to find all the mail-order gardening catalogs in the US and Canada - over 2000 of them! Check here first to find the company and see its ratings for quality, service, price and breadth of varieties. Plus links to mail-order companies outside North America, and other gardening-related sites.
http://www.seeds.ca/info/links/index.php
Seed Sources
Why buy heirloom seeds?
Seed savers exchange defines an heirloom seed as a seed that history which has been passed down through a family, such as a piece of heirloom jewelry or furniture. The genetic diversity of the world’s food crops is disappearing. Thus it is important to learn to grow these heirloom seeds.
This listing covers sources for food seeds, heirloom, traditional, seed preservation and organic sources, and some sources for special climates. This is not a complete list.
*note: these are all USA resources. I hope to add international resources in the future.
Seed Exchanges
[Excellent site]
http://www.revivevictorygarden.org/seeds.html
wonderful links, frugal, garden,homestead and more:
http://mygreendream.wordpress.com/about/
Misc. Seed Annuals at the Victory Horticultural Library
[History and more current, I didn’t figure out this site..granny]
http://www.saveseeds.org/library/holdings/catalogs.html
[More good links]
Pikes Peak Permaculture
Sustainable Organic Living Through Permaculture
http://www.pikespeakpermaculture.org/links.html
Where I started and got to the above:
Thanks to you granny I will never get off this thread, LOL.
http://www.pinchingyourpennies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45325
Tips to help you prepare for winter.
Why should you do it now?
As the temperature drops outside, there are things you need to do to prepare for harsh weather ahead.
Prepare your vehicle for winter:
Have your antifreeze & tires checked on your car.
Have a pressurized can of de-icer and tire inflate.
Make sure your spare is in good condition and full of air.
Check your car battery and wiper blades.
Keep battery jumper cables and towing strap in car at all times.
Kitty Litter for traction on icy areas.
Put a spare key behind your license plate or somewhere hidden, but accessible.
Check the tread on your tires.
Keep your gas tank full and a spare gas can in vehicle.
Have a vehicle first aid kit, blanket and emergency road side kit in your car.
Keep some non perishable foods in vehicle at all times during the winter - granola bars, jerky, gum, hard candy, crackers, nuts, etc.
Make sure you keep a lighter and fuel source or flare in your car at all times.
If you are going into the mountains- You can always light a tree on fire for heat and to aid in your rescue.
Prepare your house for winter:
Have your furnace and water heater checked. Replace filters and clean lint from around gas vents, air returns and heat registers. Check fan & motor belts and oil motor if necessary.
Remove combustibles from around furnace and water heaters.
Replace batteries in CO2 and Smoke detectors, test them too!
Turn off your sprinkler system and swamp cooler water supply.
Take care of the drafty areas around windows and doors.
Turn off outside water taps to prevent freezing.
Spray bugspray around foundation of house to prevent the creepy crawlers from finding a warm place to live during the winter.
Prepare your pets for winter:
Do they have proper shelter and water supplies that will not freeze over.
Will their food supply stay dry and not freeze.
Is their bedding adequate, do they need straw or a better house?
Here is a downloadable and printable checklist - Winter Storm preparedness
If you will be doing anything outdoors, you need to prepare for winter weather conditions. The temperatures will drop drastically in a matter of hours and hypothermia will set in rapidly. If you are stuck in the mountains and can’t get to shelter or have improper clothing, you will be risking your life and safety.
Are you prepared?
http://www.pinchingyourpennies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45325
Triple AAA & Utah Highway Patrol safety tips:
Snow, rain and fog present real challenges to motorists, so Triple AAA & Utah Highway Patrol says drivers need to hone their winter driving skills to safely navigate the wet and slippery streets.
“The wet and snowy months of fall and winter have the highest number of crashes, and the most weather-related deaths and injuries,” said AAA Utah spokeswoman Rolayne Fairclough.
Loss of visibility, slick roads, and poorly maintained vehicles combine with snow, rain, and fog to cause thousands of crashes each year. Motorists can improve their chances of safety if they observe a few winter-weather driving tips:
Adjust your driving for the weather.
Slow down. Your vehicle needs at least three times more distance to stop on slick roads. Increase your following distance to a minimum of four to eight seconds between your vehicle and the vehicle in front of you. Always be extremely attentive to your driving and the road conditions so you can anticipate a hazard in time to react safely.
Steer clear of collisions.
You may need to take evasive action to avoid a collision. Steering is preferred to braking at speeds above 25 mph because less distance is required to steer around an object than to brake to a stop. In winter weather, sudden braking often leads to skids.
Recognize a water hazard.
Even small amounts of moisture make a difference to your safety. Only one-twelfth of an inch of water between your tires and the road means each of your tires has to displace one gallon of water a second. To reduce the chances of hydroplaning, slow down, avoid hard braking or turning sharply, drive in the tracks of the vehicle ahead of you and increase your following distance.
Prepare your vehicle for winter driving.
Check the tread on your tires. Good tread allows the water to escape from under the tires and increases traction. Keep tires at proper pressure. Low pressure allows the tread to squeeze together and thus reduces traction. Make sure your lights work properly and change the blades in your wipers.
Know how to handle fog -
During winter months, fog often plagues Utah motorists. Visibility in fog can deteriorate at a moment’s notice to as little as one-eighth of a mile or less. The rapid loss of visibility creates serious driving hazards. The following are specific driving tips for fog:
Drive with lights on low beam.
Reduce speed.
Listen for traffic you cannot see - open windows if necessary.
Use wipers and defroster for maximum vision.
Be patient! Don’t switch lanes unnecessarily.
Unless absolutely necessary, don’t stop on any freeway or other heavily traveled road.
If possible, postpone your trip until after the fog has lifted.
Here’s the Winter Storm Preparedness link:
http://www.slcgov.com/departments/emergency_man/prep_manual/pdfs/Winter_storm_preparedness_flyer.pdf
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