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Real Vanilla Isn't Plain. It Depends On (Dare We Say It) Terroir
NPR ^ | August 29, 2014 | APRIL FULTON AND ELIZA BARCLAY

Posted on 08/31/2014 3:15:10 PM PDT by nickcarraway

Banish the phrase "plain vanilla" from your lexicon.

Why? Because vanilla is one of the most complex spices around, boasting at least 250 different flavor and aroma compounds, only one of which is vanillin, the stuff that can be made artificially in a lab (and is used in a lot of processed foods).

And as we discovered in a round-the-world tasting tour of single-origin vanilla beans — the real stuff — the plant has evolved distinctions in flavor and, dare we say it, terroir, at each stage of its turbulent, globetrotting history.

You've likely heard of Madagascar Bourbon vanilla. It's the classic, deep, rich "real" vanilla the world has come to know and love. It helps that Madagascar is the world's biggest producer of vanilla bean, harvesting 1,000 to 1,500 tons per year.

But what about Tahitian vanilla, with its strong notes of cherry, or spicy, nutmeg-y Mexican vanilla? They're pretty amazing, too, thanks to their own rich soils, curing techniques and vanilla-friendly climates.

To compare them, we drafted our colleague Marc Silver, who's always up for a taste test, into service.

The three of us selected beans sold by Nielsen-Massey, an Illinois company that's one of the largest suppliers of pure vanilla in the world, from Tahiti, Mexico and Madagascar, and made three vanilla ice creams with them. We used the same simple recipe and the same ice cream makers to turn out almost identical-looking snowy mounds speckled with black. And then we set them up side by side for an unscientific tasting at NPR headquarters.

In an experiment like this, you're not likely to get much in the way of criticism. Because who doesn't like vanilla ice cream?

But several tasters preferred the exotic cherry and floral — even "smoky marshmallow" — notes in the Tahitian vanilla ice cream. A few sided with the tried-and-true Madagascar, and a couple went for the more subtle, woodsy Mexican variety.

The orchids that produce vanilla beans have no natural pollinators in Madagascar; the plant must be pollinated by hand — a labor-intensive process with little margin for error.

Increasingly, says Craig Nielsen, CEO of Nielsen-Massey, consumers are learning to appreciate these differences, much like coffee. "That's why we label our products by source so that people are aware of what area of the world the product is coming from, the different flavor profiles and how they can be used." (The Nielsen-Massey website offers recipes for inspiration: tropical fruit flan with Tahitian vanilla, and whipped cream with Mexican vanilla, for example.)

Nielsen says he tends to go for Madagascar, if forced to choose. "To me, it's a great, all-purpose vanilla," he says. "I use it in anything," including tomato sauce, salmon marinades and chili. "It's a great enhancer of other flavors, and can bring out sweetness without sugar."

Vanilla is one of the most labor-intensive crops in the world, but humans find it so intoxicating, we have come to rely on it for everything from ice cream to meat to air fresheners.

"If cacao was the food of the gods, vanilla was definitely the nectar that accompanied it," writes Patricia Rain, a cultural anthropologist, in her book Vanilla: The Cultural History of the World's Favorite Flavor and Fragrance.

The "pure, natural" vanilla spice is really the seeds from dried pods of an orchid whose flowers bloom and die within a day. The vanilla vine originated in the wild jungles of ancient Mexico, growing upward and wrapping itself around stronger plants. It was revered by the Aztecs, but once European explorers had a taste, they realized it had great potential as a commercial spice, and eventually smuggled it to the Bourbon islands around Madagascar for domestication.

Then it took a wild side trip through the Philippines, where it was crossbred with another subspecies in the early 1800s. From there, it landed in Tahiti, where it was further crossbred and became a different species altogether (Vanilla tahitensis Moore), according to Rain. It's since moved into production in Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and India, says Nielsen, who also buys from those countries.

Orchids are fussy plants that typically do not self-pollinate. And there are only a couple of pollinators that do a good job, which means wild-pollinated vanilla in Mexico was a hit-or-miss proposition.

After much human trial and error in cultivation, vanilla plants are now hand-pollinated, to ensure the kinds of quantities the world demands. In Mexico, the plants are watched over by boys with rocks who shoo pesky chachalaca birds away who would otherwise eat their way through the precious flowers, Rain says.

Then there's the labor-intensive process of cooking, sweating, drying and curing the bean pods. They must be transformed from looking like oversized green beans into the dark brown, wrinkly, oily and shrunken pods with a powerful fragrance. In Mexico, they cure in adobe ovens, while in Madagascar and Tahiti, they cure in the sun, for a few hours a day, for up to six months.

In fact, the progression from pollination to processed bean takes about a year and a half, Rain notes.

Want to read more about growing vanilla? Check out a bean-to-bottle story from Madagascar on our sister blog, Goats and Soda.


TOPICS: Agriculture; Food; Science
KEYWORDS: vanilla
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To: Louis Foxwell

And for their extract they use rum rather than bourbon.
At least the bottle my wife brought home from her Haiti trip did. I spent some time trying to identify why it did not taste like American Vanilla.


21 posted on 08/31/2014 4:51:45 PM PDT by Pete from Shawnee Mission
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To: Diana in Wisconsin; nickcarraway

Calling your attention to this thread! I think that Nick posted this with you in mind! Orchids and Vanilla!


22 posted on 08/31/2014 4:55:31 PM PDT by Pete from Shawnee Mission
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To: DManA

Trader Joe’s is the bomb (as the kids would say).

.


23 posted on 08/31/2014 5:00:35 PM PDT by Mears
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To: Mears

LOL, since it is impossible (or prudent) to keep up with what the kids say, I have learned never to say “as the kids say”.


24 posted on 08/31/2014 5:21:48 PM PDT by DManA
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To: DManA

Vanilla beans are very expensive. I get 16 small beans for 50 dollars at my local spice goods store. It’s easy to make the real vanilla. Get a bottle of good vodka and put the beans in it and let them soak. Takes a while for the vodka to soak in all that delicious vanilla flavor but worth the wait. I use it in everything I bake.


25 posted on 08/31/2014 5:34:17 PM PDT by lucky american (Progressives are attacking our rights and y'all will sit there and take it.)
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To: lucky american

http://www.beanilla.com/madagascar-vanilla-beans-extract-grade-b


26 posted on 08/31/2014 5:42:04 PM PDT by Pkeel
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To: DManA

:-)


27 posted on 08/31/2014 6:26:00 PM PDT by Mears
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To: nickcarraway
I worked at RT French (mustard? red pennant? once had their own line of herbs and spices) for several years and worked with vanilla beans.

Real vanilla extract is wonderful. It has at least 1000 different components, which is part of its subtlety. After you've used the real thing, artificial vanilla is a rotgut kind of product, cheap but harsh. Don't waste your money and time using this inferior product. Your sugar cookies and ice creams will make the difference obvious.

Regarding Mexican vanilla. I would not touch it. Mexican food and drug laws are whimsical, and following them seems to be optional--even if you buy a product labeled like the American-made analogue, someone may have used a different component than what is on the label, as I discovered when analyzing some Mexican Crest during my days as a Proctoid. The label doesn't mean what you read on Mexican packages--and I am talking about a major, active ingredient in this particular version of Crest.

Mexican vanilla is commonly spiked with coumarin-related compounds, which make it smell wonderful and a lot of Americans buy it, but these particular compounds were removed from American artificial vanilla decades ago when they were shown to be carcinogenic. They do not naturally occur in vanilla beans.

Find a brand of real vanilla you like, and stick with it.

Or do what I did at RT French, and set up a Soxhlet extraction and make your own!
28 posted on 08/31/2014 6:43:01 PM PDT by Nepeta
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To: nickcarraway
History Of Vanilla
29 posted on 08/31/2014 6:55:59 PM PDT by blam (Jeff Sessions For President)
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To: Pete from Shawnee Mission

Thanks, Pete! Love them both. :)

Breyer’s Real Vanilla Ice Cream ROCKS!

http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/everydaycooking/tastetests/vanilla-ice-cream

I make my own vanilla extract with beans and brandy. It’s a Wisconsin thang. :)


30 posted on 09/01/2014 11:05:01 AM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin (I don't have 'Hobbies.' I'm developing a robust Post-Apocalyptic skill set...)
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To: Diana in Wisconsin

Ice cream and summer in Wisconsin!

(Someone in Madison needs to breed a Vanilla orchid that can grow in a cedar bog with only 3 months of summer!)


31 posted on 09/01/2014 5:28:12 PM PDT by Pete from Shawnee Mission
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To: Pete from Shawnee Mission

Is that a challenge? LOL!


32 posted on 09/01/2014 7:48:36 PM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin (I don't have 'Hobbies.' I'm developing a robust Post-Apocalyptic skill set...)
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To: BykrBayb

My late aunt, twice removed. Pretty dress is it not? She made it herself in less than a day.

Dictyophora indusiata

Thanks for the tips.

33 posted on 09/02/2014 12:43:38 PM PDT by Fungi
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To: Fungi
Great seamstress. Bit of an exhibitionist though. She would make my Indian ancestors blush!

I was going to post a blush colored Indian motorcycle, but when I googled it, I blushed.

34 posted on 09/02/2014 10:04:50 PM PDT by BykrBayb (Islam is the incarnation of The Beast. ~ Þ)
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To: Diana in Wisconsin

No, but if you wanted to make a name for yourself among botanists and try to develop a cold hardy vanilla orchid....

http://www.ask.com/wiki/Vanilla_(genus)?o=2801&qsrc=999&ad=doubleDown&an=apn&ap=ask.com

“Vanilla, the vanilla orchids, form a flowering plant genus of about 110 species in the orchid family (Orchidaceae). The most widely known member is the Flat-leaved Vanilla (V. planifolia), from which commercial vanilla flavoring is derived...”

http://www.orchid-care-tips.com/hardy-orchids.html

“Cold hardy epiphytes are rare. Almost all temperate orchids are terrestrial, growing in the ground. This most often means boggy habitats. It’s necessary to prepare the soil to match the conditions your orchid expects. For orchids that grow in bogs...” (More at link)

Orchidaceae Vanilla planifolia subs. Diana ab Wisconsinsis “The huntress” Nice sound! I suppose its something to do with 40 years of retirement ahead?


35 posted on 09/03/2014 6:06:08 PM PDT by Pete from Shawnee Mission
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To: Pete from Shawnee Mission

LOL!

Did you know that the, ‘Granny Smith’ apple was discovered in Australia, while ‘Granny Smith’ was using parts of apples to to breed her orchids?

The only time I have time to do this kind of stuff is in the winter and it costs too much to heat my greenhouse in these brutal Wisconsin winters!

This winter, put, ‘Flower Confidential’ by Amy Stewart on your reading list. You’ll love it! :)

http://www.amystewart.com/books/flower-confidential/


36 posted on 09/03/2014 6:18:16 PM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin (I don't have 'Hobbies.' I'm developing a robust Post-Apocalyptic skill set...)
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To: Diana in Wisconsin

So she was an orchid grower not an orchardist? Interesting!
There is a cold hardy apricot that was found growing in a farmers trash area in New Berlin Wisconsin.

There may be a way to heat a greenhouse with one of these.
You have to fire it up though. A bother.

http://www.ernieanderica.info/rocketstoves


37 posted on 09/03/2014 8:38:28 PM PDT by Pete from Shawnee Mission
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