If it were me, I’d inspect this very closely. There are essentially two price sets. One is for an original, and the other is for imports with US parts substituted. Import marks, signs of re-barreling, different bolts, other parts, different markings on the cover, etc.
That price seems steep to me. I’ve seen prices for very good ones in the $325 range in the past - I don’t know about now.
If $500 is your play money, sure. Otherwise...no.
If Ya got the$$$ go for it
I still have my VC SKS and it works fine despite some rust from its time in the jungle.
A word of warning on .762 mil ammo, lots of it available from Russia but it is all steel; even the “soft points” are steel, just dipped in lead. Indoor ranges won't let you shoot them.
Don’t know the Tula thing. I do know they were giving SKSs away for $90 or so 10 years ago.
The Chinese SKS are going for over $300 now. I would think a real Russian might be worth it. I seen one for $600
lots of aftermarket parts. Some good, some bad.
Cheaper than dirt carries some.
Also you can import ammo for it from the russian army and have it sent to your home U.P.S.
Pretty kool when a wooden box with Russian print all over identifying 1000
rounds weighing 50 pounds shows up
One thing to keep in mind.
The SKS’s (at least the Russian ones) have no spring on the firing pin, the firing pin kind of “free-floats” in the bolt.
So if it gets jammed or bent or fudged up in the forward position... you are in full auto until your clip is out.
Is this gun unsurpassed by anything made in America or is
it just a collectors item?
It's a mid '60s arsenal 26 milsurp in decent, not great, condition.
$500 buck for any SKS seems extortionate to me but these days, it seems to be what they're going for - and the Russian is a much better deal.
First you should make certain all the numbers match. There will be matching serial numbers stamped on the trigger guard, stock, receiver, bolt carrier, bolt, receiver cover and magazine. Sometimes they stamped only the last 3 or 4 digits of the master serial number that is on the receiver to the other parts, sometimes the whole number. See if the numbers are all stamped or electro-penciled.
Next see if the stock is laminated or solid wood. Laminated would indicate it was an arsenal refurb. Also the finish should be blued. Painted indicates a refurb. Bolt and carrier should be bright steel, unblued.
There should be a blade bayonet attached and cleaning kit in the buttstock.
Finally look around on the barrel and receiver for electro-stenciled importer's marks. Usually will say something like Century Arms, St. Albans, VT or some other importer. This will indicate a recent import. If you can't find an importer's mark then the value will be considerably higher indicating an older import possibly even a war trophy from Viet Nam (most of those were Chinese)
If the bore , wood and metal are in excellent condition and the numbers match then the price is good even for a refurb.
If there are no importer marks it would easily sell for double that price assuming original parts and everything matches.
I just sold one last week for 300, with the bayonet!
Look for a rearsenal mark...a square or diamond with a slash through it...on the receiver cover. Also, the ‘51 is notorious for not having a safety spring. Is the bayonet black?