The Guild 7-19-2002 The History of Shoes

North Hampton Museums and Art Gallery ^

[BigWaveBetty]

Early Shoes

The simplest way to protect feet was to grab what was handy – bark, large leaves and grass – and tie them under the foot with vines. In hot countries this developed into the sandal made from woven palms, grass or plant fibres and attached to the foot with toe loops. Examples of early sandals have been found in Japan, Polynesia and America.

We know that early man used the skins of slaughtered animals for clothing, eventually discovering how to tan and preserve them. In cold countries shoes were made from animal skins to give better protection and keep the feet warm. A piece of treated skin with holes punched around the edge was put under the foot and laced with a leather strap that acted as a drawstring to hold the shoe in place around the foot. This was an early example of the moccasin.

The earliest footwear in Britain must have resembled the pampootie from the Aran Islands, Ireland. Few early shoes have survived. Fragments of Bronze Age footwear have been found in excavations but not enough to determine styles. But from the Roman times onwards many shoes have survived suggesting that there were many more shoe styles than one would expect.

Roman Shoes

The Romans produced a variety of footwear. They arrived in Britain wearing the military sandal, called the caliga, which exposed the toes, had a lattice – patterned upper, front lacing and a heavily nailed sole. Other styles were the calceus and the gallica, both with a closed toe – a style more suited to the British weather.

After the Romans left, Britain began producing its own styles, usually a closed toe leather shoe with an oval or round toe shape. The ankle shoe was popular in the 9th Century and was made as a turnshoe, which meant the separate upper and sole were thonged together inside out and then turned. Some of these shoes were straights, made for either foot.

Medieval Shoes

Footwear styles continued to change during the Medieval age. The sole and upper were no longer thonged but stitched together with thread and the toe became a sharp point, known as scorpion tails, they began to get longer in the 1320’s and became known as pikes, crackowes or poulaines. The length of ones toe was an indication of status. The King and his court had shoes with the largest toes. This style wasn’t worn by women. The ankle shoe remained popular, it was usually side laced with three pairs of holes.

The pointed toe disappeared at the end of the Middle Ages and was replaced by round and square toe shapes. At first a sensible size, toes became larger and larger. During the reign of Henry VIII soles reaching 6½ inches wide were common and known as foot bags.

Another popular style was a low cut shoe with a strap and buckle fastening across the ankle and a square toe. Both styles could have slashed decorations on the toe.

Tudor Shoes

After 1500, a blunt pointed toe returned, followed by a round toe in the 1590’s. From 1570 shoes develop latchet ties which tie over the tongued front. It’s about this time that heels emerge. By the end of Elizabeth I’s reign heels grow to 2-3 inches, all footwear is made straights and sides are opened up. During the reign of Charles I, flamboyant knee boots are popular.

17th Century

Pair of men's mules 1620-30

In the 17th Century, men wore shoes and mules with a square toe, often blocked and domed. Women decide that a pointed toe is more feminine. An important innovation in 1660 was the buckle to fasten a shoe. Samuel Pepes’s writes in his diary of 22nd January 1660, "This day I began to put on buckles to my shoes".

At first popular with men, women eventually wore them too, replacing ribbon latchets with buckle latchets.

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Click on the image to find out more.

18th Century

Click on image to view several varieties.

In the 18th Century, women’s shoes reflect the elaborate patterns of their dresses and have similar embroidery and trimming. Bands of metallic braid were popular as decoration on shoes. The silver or gold braid was transferred from one pair of shoes to another. Other characteristics include pointed toes, ribbon and buckle latchet ties, a white kid leather round between the shoe sole and upper and high covered wooden heel. Men’s shoes became quite plain made of black leather with pointed toes and low heels.

By the end of the 1760’s, thick heels begin to thin down but became not very strong, the top becomes wider and more wedged like, producing in the 1770’s, the ‘Italian Heel’ for women's shoes. Towards the end of the 18th Century and beginning of the 19th Century women's shoes became lower and lower cut, heels became lower until they disappear altogether and the pointed toe is replaced by first narrow oval toes and then square toes. Shoes become so dainty made from satin and silks that ribbon ties are added to keep the shoe on the foot.

19th Century

Click image to view several varieties.

The 19th Century is characterised by the predominance of boots both for men and women. Popular styles were the Blucher boot with an open tab front and lacing, cloth boots with side lacing, the elastic sided boot, the button boot, and the Balmoral boot, which was front laced with a closed tab. Apart from boots, women wore court shoe style shoes in a variety of different materials, from satin and silk to reptile and drawn leathers. Men had a choice between the Oxford shoe, with front lacing and a closed tab and the Derby shoe, with front lacing and an open toe.

20th Century

The 20th Century has seen a variety of shoe styles and the rise of the shoe designer. From 1920’s bar shoes to 1930’s co-respondent two-colour shoes to 1940’s utility styles to 1950’s brothel creepers to 1960’s winklepickers and stiletto heels to 1970’s platform soles, shoe designers have been prominent throughout the 20th Century, but the 1980’s and 1990’s have seen greater success for shoe designers such as Patrick Cox, Red or Dead, Emma Hope and Jeffery West.

20th CENTURY FASHIONS

MODERN DESIGNS

Click image to find out more about 20th Century Fashions and Modern Designs.

PREVIOUS THREADS

[daisyscarlett]

Welcome Hackshaw...A friend of Mountaineer's is a FRiend to all of us. I read the Guild regularly and it is really tickling my funny bones today too. Actually we have a lot of knee slapping threads. You should come by often....

[daisyscarlett]

I must be cynical for a minute here. Do you guys think Hillary really got mad spontaneously or is she reacting to polls that say she is "too nice". Remember, her fundraising is down so maybe she is changing her public personna. Maybe to keep up with "Give 'em heck Gore". Ya think?

And my goodness, I crack up when I think of El Reno on the dance floor......I mean she will literally be on the dance FLOOR....What is she, nuts or something?...Never mind...

[Hacksaw]

Hi, nice to see you here! (To everyone else - hacksaw and I freeped Janet Reno a couple years ago when she gave a graduation address at a nearby college, so please give him a big welcome).

Hello - I have been involved in local politics lately. I ran for committee chair for my borough, and to my horror, I found out that I was the only Pub who ran and was elected. I am not sure how familiar you are with recent Pgh politics, but I live in Brentwood and there was a huge grudge against B Cranmer. I was finally able to build up the committee and get a more agressive person to chair it. And Mr. Cranmer is helping out, as he is a good organizer. But I do not support what he did to Mr. Dunn.

I still have a hard time believing that Acker invited Reno for a graduation speech. Remember that loony that yelled at us?

[mountaineer]

I hope Jackboot Janet leads her supporters in a frenzied dance number to "All Shook Up." Once she gets going, they may think an earthquake is occurring.

[mountaineer]

Yes, I remember both that wild-eyed woman who screeched at us protesters, and how Cranmer turned against Dunn. I forgot about those guys after Roddey and the county council were elected. Congrats on your election. As for WJU, at least Acker isn't there any more, although I hear things aren't going terribly well under his successor.

[Hillary's Lovely Legs]

"Do you guys think Hillary really got mad spontaneously or is she reacting to polls that say she is "too nice".

Where was this poll taken? On Mars?

[Endeavor]

Best line of the day.

[DaughterofEve]

You WOULD post this on a day my shoes killed my feet in Manhattan. I had to go to Duane Reade, and buy bandaids, sit on a doorstep on East 40-something street, take off my knee-highs under my jeans, and bandage 3 of my toes in order to limp to my destination.
Naturally, no one even GLANCED at me!

[Hacksaw]

Well, IMO there needs to be a good purge in the Church. Too many politicians and businessmen, and not enough genuine leaders.

I am still planning on buying a home in Weirton and commuting here - the taxes are so much lower. However, there are no doctors - I read in NR that the last neurosurgeon is now gone from WV.

I also read that Wise was elected with the help of the trial bar. For some trivia, a guy that writes for the Charleston paper that did a major hit piece on the doctors was a dorm mate of mine. I hope his insurance bills are exploding.

[mountaineer]

Perchance was that writer Chris S., former N-R reporter? The Charleston papers hire only biased reporters.

Yes, you can exchange the high taxes of Allegheny County for the doctorless environs of the Northern Panhandle, but you'd still probably come out ahead.

[BigWaveBetty]

You don't suppose that some of Janets "supporters" showed up just to be on camera do you?

Democratic candidate for Florida governor, Janet Reno (R) shakes hands with supporters at 'Level' nightclub in Miami Beach's trendy Art Deco District, July 19, 2002. Inspired by a television skit that spoofed Reno as the gawky host of a basement dance club, the former U.S. attorney general threw a real-life 'Janet Reno Dance Party' at the nightclub to raise money for her gubernatorial campaign. (Colin Braley/Reuters)

Janet Reno supporters dance at the Reno Dance Party fund raiser in the trendy nightclub, Level, in Miami Beach, Fla., Friday, July 19, 2002. (AP Photo/J. Pat Carter)

Janet Reno tells supporters at her dance party fund raiser Friday, July 19, 2002, why she should be elected governor of Florida at the Miami Beach rally. (AP Photo/J. Pat Carter()

Janet Reno, a candidate for Governor of Florida, addresses the audience at her dance party fund raiser at the trendy South Beach night club, Level, Friday, July 19, 2002, in Miami Beach, Fla. (AP Photo/J.Pat Carter)

Awwww, dang it! Janet didn't wear her blue Dance Party dress. Oh well, black in Miami in July is just so chic!

[mountaineer]

Janet Reno plays the fool excellently, having been born to the role, although I am surprised she didn't wear the trademark blue outfit. I almost hope she wins her primary, regardless of my antipathy, as she won't stand a chance against Jeb.

[mountaineer]

Sign of the times hurl alert:

IN their never-ending quest to promote "Tadpole" - about an affair between a 15-year-old boy and a 40-year-old woman - the geniuses at Miramax are trying to convince the media that "tadpoling is the hottest new trend on the American sexual landscape."

A press release from Miramax states that tadpoling is "defined as the act of an older woman pairing up romantically with a man at least 10 years younger." Of course, it neglects to mention that the term "tadpoling" did not exist until Miramax flacks invented it. rest of story, Page Six.

[Iowa Granny]

In my neck of the woods,, the term Tadpoling refers to seining the creek for bait.

On second thought, there appear to be some similarities.

[mountaineer]

New thread is coming down the pike (currently hung up at a toll booth for lack of correct change) - please be patient.

[mountaineer]

New thread

[Hacksaw]

Perchance was that writer Chris S., former N-R reporter? The Charleston papers hire only biased reporters.

No, Larry M. Are you familiar with him at all?

[Hacksaw]

Welcome Hackshaw...A friend of Mountaineer's is a FRiend to all of us.

Thank you for the welcome!

[mountaineer]

No, I don't know him. The "Chris" I mentioned rattled around your alma mater (along with several other institutions of higher ed) before landing at the N-R and the Daily Mail.

[Hacksaw]

No, I don't know him. The "Chris" I mentioned rattled around your alma mater (along with several other institutions of higher ed) before landing at the N-R and the Daily Mail.

Well, Larry did a series of hit pieces on doctors in WV, stating that they have it much better than they were making out. It was so egregious that National Review mentioned it without mentioning Larry by name. Larry then wrote to NR to complain about it, whereupon the authour trashed Larry again, this time by name.

Larry was actually a nice guy - I suppose he has been "assimilated" by the media.