Don’t forget taste.
I’ll stick with 3000/3500 miles unless you’re running a good synthetic.
When my Suburban gets to 7,500 miles since the last oil change, every time I turn on the ignition I get a light that just says “CTF Oil.” I think that means oil change time.....
I’ve always used the rule that if you use new oil, you can go further between changes and if you let the local quick lube type place use the bulk oil, that abour 3000-4000 is right, since they are using recycled oil. any comments?
Used to be 3 Months or 3000 miles. I work from home and rarely drive. I had an oil change in Jan 2009 and have only driven 2000 miles since.
My 92 Ranger called for 7500 miles......my ‘02 Jeep calls for 3000 miles.
I don't drive many miles so I am sticking to the four seasons change schedule regardless of miles.
besides, does ...New York Times ^ | Sept 10, 2010 | Alina Tugend.. sound like she knows anything abt. cars....?
Yeah, and octane rating "doesn't matter" /sarc
besides, does ...New York Times ^ | Sept 10, 2010 | Alina Tugend.. sound like she knows anything abt. cars....?
Yeah, and octane rating "doesn't matter" /sarc
A 3000 mile oil change works out to $22 every two months with the service I use. With gas for that distance costing $250 (assuming 30 mpg), that’s a negligible cost for playing it safe.
I use synthetics, and change the oil about every 10,000 miles, though a simple lubricity test between the thumb and finger never indicates the change is needed. I try to save the used oil to put into a bar oil mix for my chainsaws. Waste not, want not!
My husband has been a mechanic for 33 years and runs his own shop. He recommends changing every 3-5000 miles partly because he knows people. Some customers are calling for an appoimtment 500 miles before the 3000 but the vast majority forget, put it off, or just don’t have the time so we get a lot of people coming in way past the 3000 mark. And he will tell people if their oil was unusually dirty or bad and advise them to get in sooner next time.
Then theres the synthetics & synthetic blends that let you go longer. My husband puts the synthetic in my Bonneville so he doesn’t have to change it so much (mechanics hate working on their own vehicles!)
I have known several guys through the years who never changed, just added oil.
One of them had one of those toilet-paper roll filters.
Another one had one of those Marvel Mystery Oil injectors under the hood—al of them did OK!
Myself, I haven’t gotten close (knowingly) to a doctor since I retired USMC in ‘72—a chiropractor friend of mine agrees this is why I’m still in one piece.
Makes some folks wonder—not me.
I skimmed the article, looking to see if they were talking about SYNTHETIC oils. Thaey did not seem to make that distinction.
That said, it appears this is driven by some greenie California Waste organization (rolling eyes). So this revolutionary new guideline, may be just another save the planet, wipe you ass with a single sheet of TP, bit of environmental horse dung.
No. Change the oil once it tastes like burned rubber.
I was told by a mechanic once, that these new synthetics would last longer than the life of the average car, as long as every 7,000 miles or so, you drained the oil, changed the filter, put the old oil back in and topped it off. I’m not brave enough to try it myself, though...
Over the years I’ve changed my oil at 6-month intervals. The engines have outlasted most of the rest of the cars — no oil burning, no internal engine troubles, at 150k+ miles.
This includes a Volvo 260 6-cylinder (had it 21 years until a fuel leak-caused fire) that I’ve heard described as the “engine from hell” as they tended to self destruct, I think due to top-end lubrication problems. My Volvo specialist recommended/used 40-weight (vs. specified 30-weight oil), and a good grade (Castrol).