Posted on 12/04/2018 6:10:00 PM PST by chrisser
Let me preface this by saying we live in a very rural area. Most of the year, our road and sometimes our driveway are impassable without 4wd and high traction tires. We also have no cell service. So getting a repair service out here or warranty work is basically not practical.
We bought this Maytag gas oven. We run it on propane. Bought it less than a year ago from Lowes and it's been nothing but problems. I've spent more in parts for it to get it working than what we originally paid for the oven (something like $350-400) and finally got it to work a few months ago after replacing the second ignitor. I've replaced the ignitor (twice), the gas control valve, and the touchpad/control board. Basically everything but the burners and the chassis. Tonight, my wife got an F1 error, which is either the touchpad, or the control board. Before it would just refuse to maintain a temperature.
I found some literature online that helped me troubleshoot it, and I'm getting pretty good at it.
But I'm frankly sick of dealing with it.
Is there anyone who makes a basic gas range that just works? Maybe one without all the electronic gizmos that are so unreliable? We don't need something fancy, but I'd like to get something new that I don't have to keep pulling out and taking apart.
Or maybe next time I should just buy two ranges and stick one in the garage to cannibalize for parts...
That's kinda what I figured. I guess a couple of days flapping in the breeze would do the trick.
I would imagine in the wintertime, if it didn’t rain, the water would eventually evaporate above freezing, or sublimate below freezing.
I know that on my patio and sidewalk, after I shovel away the snow, there’s still some left that over the next few days, even when the weather is cloudy and below freezing, eventually disappears.
If my grandmothers were still around, I'm sure they'd tell me that's exactly how it works.
Generally speaking, just about every “small” ups does not do isolation nowadays. They are “offline”, meaning the output is the input till the MCU in the UPS detects a disturbance outside of its operational parameters. There is a transfer time that indicates how long the MCU takes to make the decision to transfer the load to the inverter, and how long it takes to set all the internal relays and power semiconductors, and how long it takes for those devices to settle.
If memory serves,that can be around 40ms or so. A full 60 hertz cycle is 17ms. Generally, that’s not long enough for the caps to discharge too low in most power supplies.
But there is a gap of no power, and there can be a gap where there is a spike a well. Additionally, most UPS have surge protection devices built in to limit spike damage, however, beware that just like a surge protector, you need to replace your entire UPS every few years. Honestly, it would be better if you could purchase units that allow surge protector module replacement. The inverters last forever, if the unit is a good one.
If you want a true isolation unit, this is called a double conversion unit. Very pricey and generally not found in small sizes, and they burn a significant amount of extra power for the double conversion.
You can still buy them. My grandmother swore by them.
“How the heck did you dry clothes in the wintertime?”
Clotheslines in the basement———or even retractable ones in the kitchen-——that’s how I grew up.
I hung sheets outside until the late 90s-——loved the smell.
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That makes sense. I grew up in warm country, and never had to hang clothes during a freezing winter.
I know what you mean about the smell of line dried clothing. It was great.
Both my grandmothers were thrilled to dump the old roller washers for machines with a spin cycle. As soon as they could afford it, they got dryers, too.
Maybe it was because they both had big families. I can only imagine how much they nagged my grandfathers for them ;-)
A house in the northern climes will absolutely suck the water out of wet clothes in winter.
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