Posted on 10/19/2023 4:08:51 PM PDT by george76
Your math is off, that would work out to $2.50 per
My ceiling recessed LED fixtures (or replacement bulbs in regular recessed cans) all have adjustable light temperature. There are five settings from very cool to very warm. I generally choose on the warm side to match the incandescents I’ve replaced.
Of course, I’ve thought of and used it when I didn’t have proper heating years ago, as a reader I had my 100-watt bulb close to my head.
If things get worse for her look into the various forms of heating pads and rubber mats that are heated that would make a warm table covering for her, and consider rigging up a heat lamp for her work area.
A pedestal lamp with a directed heat lamp might be the ticket for her, as well as an electric floor mat for her feat and/or a heat panel under the table (a warm body helps the hands), you can really come up with great solutions to a stationary work table if you look into all that is available.
That said... I love LED light bulbs.
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And I love incandescent lighting.
Neither should be forced on us.
I do the same, it works out to about 130 a month for power surcharge, water surcharge, and sewer surcharge. If I go on vacation, turn off the power and water, my bill is just a little less than $130 per month.
Sorry. Four packs. My wife bought a couple.
“...their heat output is clearly less than incandescent”
The house we bought in North Idaho was built in 1992 and has something like 37 ceiling recessed light fixtures. About 25 of them are exposed on the attic side. These recessed cans were all made before the cans were required to be made airtight. These leaky cans with incandescent bulbs are notorious for dumping hot air into the attic. Worse, they create a stack effect that pulls your heated air out of your house into the attic.
But, FAR worse, the heated attic melts a layer of snow on the roof shingles which flows to the eaves (under the snow pack) and freezes, causing ice dams that back up and cause water to get into the house. (ask me how I learned this!)
So I converted every single fixture to LED and put a pressed fiberboard pre-shaped insulating “hat” over all the fixtures that are exposed in the attic. I improved the soffit ventilation and we then foamed the attic floor to create a perfect air barrier from the house to the attic. It was an expensive and time consuming retrofit project, but it did the trick. The attic stays nice and cold now so the snow on the roof doesn’t melt with my heated house air.
Do you remember the bulb details of the old ones?
Watt wattage, were they frosted?
The ban on incandescent does not apply to incandescent heat bulbs...you can buy all of those you want. I have a small portable "greenhouse" that we put potted plants in when the weather will be freezing. A thermal switch that turns "on" when the temp. reaches 40F and "off" when the temp rises above that and two heat lamps...
The economics “arguments” are as wrong as the scientific ones. I understand both. I repeat...the article crap.
Heat lamps are too hot.
I like my LED bulbs better than incandescent. Way better.
Self evidently you are the clueless moron if you think there is a wit of difference.
My lights flicker with LED bulbs so I went back to incandescent and problem solved.
> High voltage with a low current is not good for incandescents
Incandescent lamps are resistive loads. You cannot decrease the current without decreasing the voltage. 100 year old bulbs are still running because they are running at low voltage (they glow yellow).
Oil lamps work well. Especially with whale oil.
Even the small ones? The ones I use are about 3" in diameter (still shaped like other heat bulbs). I will have to check the wattage on the ones I have.
Anyone remember those curly CFL light bulbs the government pushed years ago to save the environment? They too gave a crappy garish light and were an environmental hazard themselves as they contained toxic mercury. Break one and you needed hazardous material clean up.
While I use LED bulbs...what choice do you have...I never know what type of bulb to buy. Package information is cryptic and I often find the bulb gives weird lighting.
I used to use them during lambing season in Wisconsin. Chicken building too. I didn’t know they made small ones. I could try that. Thanks.
The problem has always been an issue of power supply heat.
If you power LED’s directly from DC power source, it will last an incredible long time.
I have a box of burned out LED light bulbs, more than 2 dozen the have died on me. All with the same issue. AC power supply inside the bulb fails, probably because of heat and the electrolytic capacitors.
Powered by DC power source, LED’s make a lot of sense. It is one of the small number of household devices that DC power source makes sense. (i.e solar panels)
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