Has anyone else ever experienced this problem? I have googled it quite a bit and found some hits "close" to my problem but the poster never came back to the thread to post the solution.
My mechanic did say he saw this a couple years back on another Cherokee. They thought it might have been the starter and replaced it (even had it into the dealership and only thing they could recommend is a new starter). The guy who owned the vehicle took it to the next state over and you guessed it, it failed to start for him.
So I am stuck and hoping someone else might have an idea? (I hope this actually has NOT happened to you however, its a real pain not knowing if you can get somewhere on time and reliably).
Thanks in advance..I'll be checking this thread periodically inbetween my other google searches!
I bet its the starter
(Ban automatic transmissions)
I had the same problem a year ago (different vehicle).
It turned out it was the Battery after all. This is after I had it checked 3 times.
Replaced it and no problems since.
I feel for you on this one. As a flatbed wrecker driver, I see a lot of issues with both the FOB and the new electronics in today’s cars. What caught my was the attempt w both FOBs and no results. I believe it is in your FOB receiver. Best part of luck.
Did you, when it wasn’t starting, shift to neutral and while keeping your foot on the brake try starting? Just to ensure that the interlock wasn’t the issue?
“2010 Grand Cherokee Laredo 10400 miles “
Seriously?? I only hit 103,000 on my 04’ LTD V8 recently but I drive it sparingly as I have a couple more cars. Never had a starter problem AND I received a letter from Jeep to change something as a recall letter but I doubt that was something related to your issue.
The only things I changed that were major when the gauge hit red were the 02 sensors (effing 4 of these suckers cost me 240 but they were OEM) and the oil/transmission sensor. The TPMS has been out of whack for years but I dont care much about it.
It only happened once?
This happened one time to me with my 2013 Elantra. I left work and the car just wouldn’t start (it has a push button start). I work far from home and there’s no alternative but driving, so I’m thinking great, hubby will have to come and get me.
I got out of the car and was going to go up to the office to call him, and I thought, let me try one more time.
It started right up. That was the only time I had that problem but it was very weird.
Whoa dude!
Get it away from your mechanic. He’s been milking “started car” for a week and cannot do basic starting circuit preventative maintenance?
This is a very common issue in FL. Here’s the fix I use:
1) Clean crud off battery terminals with water.
2) tighten both ends of each cable starting at the battery clamps/connectors and then the cable ends (connections to starter solenoid and ground).
3) Drive a stainless steel screw between the battery’s positive post and battery clamp on the opposite side of where the clamp gets tightened. You may need to use a small nail to make a starter hole.
If it happens again after this turn on the lights first, then start. Then repeat above steps.
Best of luck.
Trying to save some $$$ aren't you?
You should have taken it to the dealer, while it may cost you more, they the proper diagnostic equipment and an encyclopedia of troubleshooting.......
Did you try shifting it a few times? Wiggling the steering wheel?
Can’t say as this is related, but I had a 1990 Chrysler Dynasty that, if you ran it for 1/2 an hour or more, shut it down and tried to restart it within 20 minutes, it would not start. After waiting for 1/2 hour or so, it started with no problem. About ten years ago, I made the mistake of taking it to Crowfoot Chrysler in Calgary for repairs. After $650 in repairs, it still did the same thing. I brought it back several times and they found nothing wrong. I finally had to call AMA and they went to bat for me. THEN they fixed the problem. All it needed was a new rotor on the starter.
Back then, the problem was that tolerances were very tight and with an older starter, (15 years old at the time) with heat given off from the motor, expansion within the copper windings caused the started to not work. As they cooled down, the starter then worked.
Could this be the same problem, who knows. I hope you can get it working correctly, without too much money spent.
A friend of mine had the same thing happen but in her case it was a Ford Explorer. Turned out to be the starter. She said that her mechanic said sometimes in a bad starter the rotor or whatever stops on an open wire and no contact is made somehow. A slight jolt or hitting it with a hammer would move it just enough to make that contact. It would be fine for weeks and then the same thing happened. Replaced starter and it ran no problem again. (Sorry for the long post but thought it would help).
Probably some type of electronic/chip programming error.
One of my friends bought a new Grand Cherokee, non 4 wheel drive.
She has had two recalls re the computer and dropping out of park.
Also, she has had the same thing happen re not starting as you have. The dealer has had her vehicle in twice for a day and supposedly found nothing wrong.
Pull fuses/disconnect battery for a while to reset the computer?
Just had the same exact problem with our Dodge truck. It was the ignition control module. $450.00 later I’m back on the road.
I have a 2012 Ram. Had the exact same problem once. There is a anti-theft plug/device of some sort to the right of my parking break lever. I knocked it loose once while getting out without realizing it. I don’t know if yours has the same device or not, but it is worth a check.
I had a problem with my Jeep Comanche (Pick-Up Truck) that sounds similar.
I had no problems (over 120,000 miles). One day drove to town, about 40 miles when the engine quit with no warning. I checked all connections with no positive results. Called my wife and waited for her. About 40 mins. went by, I tried to start. . .it started with no problem. got her to follow me to Jeep dealer, it quit after about 5 miles. Let it set for a while, started right up.
Problem turned out to be the “Top Dead Center sensor” had a crack in the collar. The TDC sensor is located on the end of the crankshaft and sends a signal to the central processor which controls all ignition and fuel systems.
When the engine was cool, the collar would shrink enough to send the proper signal. As the engine heated up the collar would expand enough to cause the crack to open enough to send a “bad” signal to the central processor. The engine would quit.
Cost me about $400-500 for the fix.
Hope this helps.
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee with a “Start” button, versus starting with a key. As long as you have the key on you, it should start. About 6 months after I purchased my Jeep, I got into the car, pushed the Start button, nothing happened. I tried several more times, absolutely nothing happened. A message came up on the display saying “Key fob not detected”, which should only appear if you don’t have the key with you when you try to start the car (I had both sets of keys on me.) I tried holding the key next to the start button, still nothing. After about 20 minutes of trying, it finally started up (there is no place to put in a key to override the start button.) I took it to the dealer, who couldn’t do anything other than say they could not recreate the problem, so they reset the software. Fortunately, the problem has not happened again.