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Science Crowns Mozzarella The King Of Pizza Cheese
NPR ^ | Maanvi Singh

Posted on 08/31/2014 2:38:09 PM PDT by nickcarraway

Any way you slice it, Americans are obsessed with pizza. One in eight of us are noshing it on any given day, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. And the average American consumes pizza about 39 times a year, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm.

The signature of a great American-style pizza is not the toppings du jour but the cheese: hot, gooey mozzarella, with big, dark splotches of caramelization.

Pizzerias didn't happen upon that winning recipe by coincidence. Food scientists have been studying and finessing the low-moisture part-skim mozzarella we now put on most of our pizzas for decades. Pizza companies fighting for consumers' loyalty are especially invested in such work.

But a few researchers are interested in studying the chemical and physical properties of pizza simply for the sake of science. Bryony James, a professor of materials engineering at the University of Auckland in New Zealand, is one of them.

It's been known for a while that mozzarella melts and blisters better than most other cheeses. But James and some colleagues wanted to investigate further: Why do different cheeses look and taste different when they're baked? Their paper, titled "Quantification of Pizza Baking Properties of Different Cheeses, and Their Correlation with Cheese Functionality," appears in the August issue of the Journal of Food Science.

The researchers started by cooking up a bunch of pies using various cheeses, including mozzarella, cheddar, Edam and Gruyere, as James explains in a video. Then, they analyzed the pizzas using cameras and special software designed to precisely measure the amount of browning, blistering and oil content.

To further tease out the physical properties of the cheeses, the researchers measured water content and elasticity. They also developed detailed diagrams of what happens to each cheese as it bakes.

The unique browning patterns on mozzarella come from the way it bubbles, James says. Since it's made by repeatedly stretching and molding fresh curds, "mozzarella has a lot of elasticity," she explains. "If you look at it under a microscope, you see it has these channels of fat surrounded by protein."

In the oven, the water in the cheese evaporates to create of steam, which causes it to bubble. Since mozzarella is so stretchy, the bubbles can expand and become fairly big. As the bubbles grow, the oil sitting on top slides off and the exposed mozzarella starts to brown. "Finally, the bubbles pop and recede back down," James says.

Cheddar isn't very elastic, so it barely bubbles, the study found. Yet a cheddar pizza will bake to an even, golden brown.In contrast, Gruyere bubbles really well but barely browns. It's a lot more oily than mozzarella, and the fat keeps the moisture in the cheese from evaporating.

"As a home consumer, you might want play around with these things," James says. Want a pizza with the traditional blistering, but sharper flavor? Try mixing mozzarella with another cheese.

Eventually, James says, the sort of research she's doing could be used to manipulate the properties of foods, like a low-fat cheese that tastes and looks just as good as the fattier stuff. Or maybe food scientists will figure out how to make a pizza crust that stays crisp, even after a day in the fridge. "When we understand food right down to its micro-structural level," she says, "it gives us the levers we need to change the way it behaves."

We'll raise a slice to that.


TOPICS: Food; Science
KEYWORDS: cheese; mozzarella; pizza; science
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1 posted on 08/31/2014 2:38:09 PM PDT by nickcarraway
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To: nickcarraway

A large peperoni with mozzarella, marinara sauce, onions mushrooms and sweet green bell peppers. Plus a six pack of Shiner Bock.

That’s what I call a seven course meal.


2 posted on 08/31/2014 2:42:11 PM PDT by Rides_A_Red_Horse (Why do you need a fire extinguisher when you can call the fire department?)
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To: Rides_A_Red_Horse

Now I’m hungry.


3 posted on 08/31/2014 2:43:16 PM PDT by Crazieman (Are you naive enough to think VOTING will fix this entrenched system?)
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To: nickcarraway
On a tour of Italy years ago we passed through a region that's famous for mozzarella.The tour guide informed us that *genuine* mozzarella is made with the milk of cape buffalo,not cows.Ever since I've been less than enthusiastic.
4 posted on 08/31/2014 2:47:52 PM PDT by Gay State Conservative (Islamopobia:The Irrational Fear Of Being Beheaded)
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To: nickcarraway

What a job. Only at a university...


5 posted on 08/31/2014 2:49:59 PM PDT by be-baw (still seeking)
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To: Gay State Conservative

Why are you less than enthusiastic about Cape Buffalo mozzarella?


6 posted on 08/31/2014 2:51:10 PM PDT by pallmallman (Q)
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To: nickcarraway

We always had grated cheese on out pizzas when I was a kid....But of course, there were also dinosaurs back then.


7 posted on 08/31/2014 3:00:34 PM PDT by Sacajaweau
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To: be-baw

Pizza Testing...second only to Lil’ Abner’s job of Chief Mattress Tester at the Stunned Ox Mattress Company.


8 posted on 08/31/2014 3:02:20 PM PDT by ProtectOurFreedom
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To: nickcarraway

Would you tell me how you pronounce mozzarella?


9 posted on 08/31/2014 3:04:51 PM PDT by heylady
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To: nickcarraway
Thank you for calling Domino's Pizza, this is David, how can I help you?
There's a bug in my pizza.
Can you describe it?
It's brown.
That's probably just burnt cheese. That happens a lot.
No, it's a bug.
Well, send it back to us, and we'll have it analysed, to see what it is, and we'll get back to you.
Never mind, it's just burnt cheese.
Okay, have a good night.
10 posted on 08/31/2014 3:06:27 PM PDT by real saxophonist (Youtube + Twitter + Facebook = YouTwitFace.com)
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To: Gay State Conservative
I can't think that any respectable pizza would be made with anything but mozzarella...what ever kind of milk it's made from.

I also love Chihuahua cheese from Mexico, though. How they milk those tiny dogs evades me. ;)

11 posted on 08/31/2014 3:07:43 PM PDT by berdie
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To: Gay State Conservative

It is like a water buffalo. And the fresh mozzarella di bufalo that you buy floating in whey is really amazing. It has a creamy center, that is wonderfully mild. I was an expat there for a couple of years, and that is one of the few things I miss. Well, and the shoes :)


12 posted on 08/31/2014 3:10:05 PM PDT by Explorer89 (And now, let the wild rumpus start!!)
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To: Gay State Conservative

Did you have an opportunity to taste buffalo mozzarella? IMHO — much better than cow’s milk.


13 posted on 08/31/2014 3:24:39 PM PDT by fatnotlazy
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To: Explorer89

Buffalo mozzarella (Italian: mozzarella di bufala) is a mozzarella made from the milk of the domestic Italian water buffalo. It is a product traditionally produced in Campania, especially in the provinces of Caserta and Salerno.

The term mozzarella derives from the procedure called mozzatura which means “cutting by hand”, separating from the curd, and serving in individual pieces, that is, the process of separation of the curd into small balls. It is appreciated for its versatility and elastic texture and often called “the queen of the Mediterranean cuisine”, “white gold” or “the pearl of the table”, in compliance with the finest food quality and taste of the product.


14 posted on 08/31/2014 3:45:55 PM PDT by beebuster2000
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To: nickcarraway

Science?


15 posted on 08/31/2014 3:57:01 PM PDT by Henry Hnyellar
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To: nickcarraway

“When we understand food right down to its micro-structural level,” she says, “it gives us the levers we need to change the way it behaves.”

Teachers.......leave those pizzas alone!


16 posted on 08/31/2014 3:59:09 PM PDT by Huskrrrr
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To: berdie
"I also love Chihuahua cheese from Mexico, though. How they milk those tiny dogs evades me"

like this?


17 posted on 08/31/2014 4:11:17 PM PDT by catnipman (Cat Nipman: Vote Republican in 2012 and only be called racist one more time!)
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To: Henry Hnyellar

Science. It’s that thing with microscopes.


18 posted on 08/31/2014 4:12:16 PM PDT by nickcarraway
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To: Henry Hnyellar
Science!
19 posted on 08/31/2014 4:21:24 PM PDT by real saxophonist (Youtube + Twitter + Facebook = YouTwitFace.com)
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To: catnipman

One of the many things I love about this site...I get answers to many life long questions. :)


20 posted on 08/31/2014 4:37:34 PM PDT by berdie
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